Five Miles Up: Chef Edward Lee travels out of the kitchen and into the wild
While toiling over Thanksgiving dinner, fantasies of exotic getaways often strike, as does this thought – where do professional chefs vacation? We checked in with Edward Lee, chef/owner of Louisville restaurants 610 Magnolia and MilkWood. His packed schedule has included stints on “Iron Chef America” and “Top Chef: Texas” and releasing his first cookbook, “Smoke & Pickles.” The Brooklyn-born Korean-American, who’s adopted Louisville as his hometown, has said, “My mission is to celebrate the culinary wanderlust in all of us.” Where Lee’s tastebuds have taken him? An ever-expanding list of destinations including British Columbia, Montana, Hawaii, Mexico, South Korea…
What’s something you never fail to pack in your suitcase?
Always have my laptop; I’m glued to it. And a good book. I’m a huge literature fan and a new dad, so I’ve been reading “How to Teach Your Children Shakespeare” by Ken Ludwig.
Carry-on or check-in?
Always carry-on.
Window or aisle?
Aisle, so I can have easy access to the restrooms.
What’s your idea of the perfect vacation?
Obviously, there’s a food element, but it’s not just about being wined and dined. I like to get into the food by getting down and dirty during the day, whether it’s fishing or hunting for dinner, then cleaning up at night and enjoying the environment.
Tell us about a vacation you’ve taken that’s come close thus far.
Last year, I got back to nature and went trout fishing in Montana. I’m not a professional fisherman, so catching an 8-pound trout was incredibly exciting, as was eating it afterwards. And recently, I went salmon fishing off the coast of British Columbia. It was one of those trips I’d always dreamed about taking. I was shaking with excitement over it.
What’s the worst vacation you’ve taken?
Six years ago, when my wife and I were still dating, we were about to take our first vacation together -- an extreme adventure combo of dune buggies and yoga in Arizona. At the airport, we were told a freak ice storm had shut down all flights to the West Coast. My travel agent found a quick alternative -- Pompano Beach in Ft. Lauderdale. We ended up at a resort for retirees, which was straight out of the 70s. We had to buy new clothes to fit in, Bermuda shorts and Hawaiian T-shirts, and drank umbrella cocktails at the tiki bar every night. It definitely wasn’t what we had planned, but we ended up having a lovely time.
Where’s your favorite destination for practicing your profession?
I like to think of practicing my profession as eating. In those terms, my ultimate destination was Arzak in San Sebastian, Spain. I got to tour the kitchen, hang out with the chef and watch her cook.
What's the most unusual souvenir you’ve ever brought back from a trip?
In South Korea, we went to a fish market where you can buy the fish, then take them upstairs to a restaurant where they’re cooked on the spot. We tried this unusual eel-like fish. The bones were so beautiful, I wrapped them up and brought them home with me.
Ever try a food you wished you hadn't?
Nothing with food, but there was a libation. A few years back, I was visiting an open market in a little resort town in Mexico. A vendor, who was trying to sell me trinkets, offered me a healthy shot of homemade mescal. I had no idea how strong it was and fell asleep on the beach, sunburning one side of my body.
Favorite hotel you've ever stayed in?
The Poetry Inn in Napa Valley, a very sweet, cute, but incredibly decadent hotel.
Favorite restaurant you’ve discovered while traveling.
Recently, I discovered Daikaya in Washington, D.C. Upstairs is a traditional Japanese restaurant, and downstairs it’s a loud, funky ramen noodle shop. I had back-to-back meals in both areas, starting with a nice, elegant meal upstairs, followed by sloppy, slurpy ramen downstairs.
Biggest regret you've ever had while on vacation.
I had an opportunity to go on an overnight wild boar hunt in Hawaii, but didn’t because we had other, early-morning commitments. Turned out, being responsible wasn’t the best choice. I should have trusted my gut and passion and gone on the hunt.
The one thing you're willing to splurge on when traveling above all else.
Without a doubt, food and wine are always my main things. The other thing I splurge on when traveling is car service. I don’t always need to stay at the best hotels, but when in a foreign city it’s always nice to get local transportation from someone who knows where they’re going.
Three songs, or artists, on your travel playlist?
I don’t believe in playlists, I like listening to an entire album all the way through. At the moment, I’m listening to Alicia Keys’ latest album, Louis CK comedy albums and Old Crow Medicine Show.
Where would you take someone visiting your hometown for the first time?
In Louisville, I’d take them target shooting on a gun range in morning. Then we’d go to my favorite fried chicken place in the afternoon, a hole-in-the-wall named Indi’s. We’d round out the day at Buffalo Trace Bourbon distillery.
You only get one more trip in your lifetime. Where will it be?
I’ve always wanted to go to Australia.
