Emeric Tchatchoua said he wanted to explore “the constant conflict between ego and humility” in his fall collection, a play on seemingly polar opposites. A multitude of references — Europe’s royal courts, Che Guevara, Jay-Z and Lil’ Kim, to name a few — were pulled together into a creative and quirky yet elevated and coherent ensemble.
Wardrobe classics were twisted with trompe l’oeil details in his play on paradox. Puffy volumes and layering channeled winter in the city as well as the ostentatious attire of royalty. Elsewhere, sweaters featured images of a human form exploding, referencing the inflation of the ego.
More from WWD
Dual waistband jeans nodded to a Lil’ Kim album cover when the rapper wore hers open over the hips. Tchatchoua’s version was more modest: the fake fur-lined overlayer could be worn open for a touch of ostentation, or closed, only the wearer the wiser. An outsized merino hoodie in ribs of red featured the Cuban revolutionary’s familiar face, a reference to when a journalist questioned Jay-Z’s wearing a Che top with statement jewelry, and a comment on how personal tastes and a desire for the greater good are not mutually exclusive.
On point, 3.Paradis’ signature dove motif — signifying peace — was found in a block print on a single-breasted suit in bleached denim, as the button on a classic camel wool coat with a removable fluffy collar tucked inside, or printed onto designs in the brand’s growing accessories offer.
Artwork inspired by Alex Webb’s photos of children playing was printed on the back of a padded jacket. Two kids, one Black, one Caucasian, were pictured holding hands as “a message of freedom, universalism and hope I want the brand to embody,” Tchatchoua said.
Also new this season was a collaboration with cocktail bar Cravan 75006, where the presentation was held; a wool varsity jacket featuring an embroidered QR code on the back conveniently linked to the social spot’s website to book a place to try out another co-branded venture, the 3.Paradis Collins, a specially created mixture of lemon, vodka, roasted coffee and ginger (an alcohol-free version is also available) on offer for the next two months.
Launch Gallery: 3.Paradis RTW Fall 2024
Best of WWD