Alexandre Vauthier RTW Spring 2024

What does quiet luxury even mean?

That kind of sweeping definition isn’t something Alexandre Vauthier is fond of. “It’s a balance to be found. It’s a reflection on the moment that we must have,” he eventually offered. After experiencing his best-yet couture season, business-wise, his sense was that “there is going to be a redefinition of luxury in coming seasons” as clients looked for more niche and therefore unique proposals.

More from WWD

In this kind of moment, houses would do well to double down on their specialty, which in his case is “allure, sobriety, the right dosage” and “making quality clothing in beautiful material that enhances women” — especially when 90 percent of the company’s turnover rests on clothing, he said.

The spring season therefore pursued the return-to-essential spirit of his July couture, expanding in a wardrobe that spans from the boardroom to the beach, with marked shoulders that gave way to unconstrained sinuous silhouettes.

Leaning into brand mainstays saw Vauthier revisit, say, jersey jumpsuits with asymmetric cuts that left one arm and a leg bare or paired a sleek spaghetti strap bodice with balloon legs.

He also explored further a new definition of the suit, moving away from the six-button exercise in favor of sharper cuts. Case in point: an asymmetric poncho with a strong shoulder paired with tailored trousers was his “less academic, less uniform” play on the genre.

A browse of his showroom brought further examples of his canny eye for applying moments and moods to great effect. Take the trenchcoat, where variations included full-length transparent organza or a more relaxed cropped version.

Similarly, pleating was used for a strong-shouldered graphic Lurex minidress but also a cocoon-shape top that would look equally good paired with jeans or something more formal.

Also new here were three bathing suit styles, a first for the brand.

“If we are still here presenting, it’s that the formula works,” said Vauthier. “Even if you are niche, you adapt yourself to a context and that’s how you last.”

Launch Gallery: Alexandre Vauthier RTW Spring 2024

Best of WWD

Click here to read the full article.