America’s Most Exclusive Jewelry Show Is Back. Here Are the 12 Debuts Worth Watching.
For lovers of designer jewelry, the Couture show, which opens June 1 at the Wynn in Las Vegas, is a four-day-long fever dream marked by jewels so inventive and over-the-top, they could be hallucinations. Below, we highlight a dozen new collections debuting in Vegas. If the pieces speak to you, you’ll need to snap to it—the one-of-a-kinds are bound to go quickly!
ARK Fine Jewelry
Expanding upon her 2022 Awakenings collection, ARK Fine Jewelry designer Ann Korman has created a new capsule of 18-karat gold designs, called Vibrations, that draws on the vibrancy of peacock feathers and the healing properties of water. One colorway that Korman calls “Ecstasy” is on display in her new 18k yellow gold Vibrations tiered pendant necklace, with its mix of blue and green gems in an ombré pattern fixed on a diamond-cut chain. Other statement pieces include the Long Vibrations earrings and Awakenings tennis necklace, each set with hand-cut diamonds, aquamarines, blue sapphires and blue topaz, watery hues that “serve as an emblem of our interconnected journey and the intricate web that unites us all,” Korman tells Robb Report. arkfinejewelry.com
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Emily P. Wheeler
Los Angeles-based Wheeler pays homage to coming-of-age in the 1990s and early 2000s in her latest collection, Rebels, an ode to her Boston upbringing. From cruising the Natick Mall to shopping for tees at Hot Topic, the inspirations behind the collection are designed to evoke the era’s punk-meets-prep sensibilities. Think Drew Barrymore in chokers, Lisa Frank-designed Trapper Keepers, and plenty of pink-and-green color combos. emilypwheeler.com
For fall 2023, Fehren is expanding on her sculptural Boa collection, which is marked by sensual, undulating shapes evocative of the human body. Accented with pear-shaped diamonds set in rose gold, the collection features the brand’s first fancy-cut eternity band. But that’s not all. “Our latest one-of-a-kind pieces refer to our core DNA: geometric diamonds set in blackened gold, this time with larger stones set in more intricate and complex shapes, always referring back to our beloved, tough-yet-tender aesthetic and inspirational New York City,” says designer Eva Zuckerman. evafehren.com
For nearly three centuries, Gismondi 1754 has made jewelry at its workshop in the coastal Italian city of Genoa. Under Massimo Gismondi, a seventh-generation member of the family business, the brand expanded its retail presence to some of the world’s most glamorous destinations, including Portofino, St. Moritz and St. Barths. In 2019, the brand participated in its first Couture. This year, the emphasis will be on statement styles that feature as little metal as possible, thereby allowing the gems to shine. These include one-of-a-kind emerald and diamond earrings, an 18-karat white gold Marea cuff set with diamonds and tanzanite, and a sleek pair of rose-gold and diamond Vela earrings. gismondi1754.com
The craftsmanship and jewelry heritage of India’s famed Pink City come alive in this Jaipur-based brand’s contemporary jewelry, officially launching at Couture with three new collections. The Jaipur range is a two-sided affair, with one side marked by bright semi-precious and precious stones dotted with small contrasting cabochons, and the other embellished with diamonds. The Aravali line is inspired by the majestic Aravali hills and valleys of India’s Rajasthan state, and features gold etched with ornamental patterns inspired by the world’s largest collection of royal hooka mouthpieces held in the family’s Gyan Museum. And the Sarai collection features intricate gold latticework on a line of bangles that borrow their aesthetic from jalis, the perforated stone screens of Indian architecture. gyanjaipur.com
In her new Eyecon collection, Blake fixes her gaze on fabulous fashion plates of the 1970s. If Bianca Jagger at Studio 54 comes to mind, you’re on the right track. “Unafraid to take risks, these women wore bold colors, textures, and fabrics while effortlessly carrying off huge statement jewelry,” says Blake. “They transformed fashion in a way that opened the doors for taking risks. Imagine her lounging poolside sipping a Tom Collins. A double 6 casually rolls out of her bell sleeve over a game of backgammon. As she glances over the rim of her butterfly gradient glasses, naturally sporting an Eyecon pinky ring in coral, she orders another TC and unabashedly plays her next opponent.” Game on! jennablake.com
Long, linear statement earrings are a focus at Moksh, an Indian jeweler famed for its diamond artistry. Set with baguette-cut gems and Japanese pearls, the pieces being unveiled at Couture represent jewelry at its most dramatic. The firm is also introducing a new sustainable collection, dubbed SH 2.0 (Shourai), made from recycled materials. @jewelsbymoksh
Athens-based Koulis considers the relationship between gold and precious stones in his latest collection, ME, which celebrates the balancing act between opposing elements (i.e., austere and delicate, tough and soft). Rife with diamonds, emeralds, and rubies, the collection is framed by blackened and brushed gold that’s been treated to produce a striking matte finish. nikoskoulis.com
She sells seashells—though you’ve never seen them like this before. Brazilian designer Silvia Furmanovich unleashes her creativity on a beguiling new 18k gold capsule collection of jewels, including earrings, necklaces, and cuffs, that showcase the natural beauty and intricate patterns of shells. Set with diamonds, garnets, citrines, fire opals, turquoise, coral, and South Sea pearls, the pieces evoke a Native American tradition that Furmanovich is passionate about, which holds that shells are gifts from the sea, and thereby associated with its spirit of renewal. silviafurmanovich.com
The artist-philosophers at this Mumbai-based jewelry studio are returning to Couture with pieces from an ongoing study called Seed-Leaf. Based on forms that resemble both seeds and leaves, the 18k gold collection has been designed with a high-gloss surface to reflect the diamonds set within, an avenue for husband-and-wife Rahul and Roshni Jhaveri to explore ideas of fertility, abundance and creation. They’ll also be unveiling additions to their well-received Cacti, Fish and Puffball Voids collections, all of which take abstract forms in nature as a starting point for their meditations on what fine jewelry represents. studiorenn.com
Sylva & Cie
The first piece of jewelry that Sylva Yepremian’s father gave to her mother when they were engaged was the starting point for Sylva & Cie’s newest collection, Sima. Named after the designer’s mom, the line riffs on those early gold earrings, juxtaposing faceted gems with long sleek lines of yellow gold fringe. She’s also debuting a new collection of one-of-a-kind collet necklaces featuring diamonds and colored stones. sylvacie.com
From his design studio in L.A., Vram Minassian has been busy at work on a new collection of gem-set one-of-a-kind creations as well as a new 18k white gold take on his bestselling Chrona range. Speaking of white metal, don’t miss his new VRAM x Platinum Guild capsule that showcases a special Chrona Butterfly ring made with brown and white diamonds set in platinum. vramjewelry.com
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