Benjamin Benmoyal switched to a distinctly more feminine register for spring, after presenting androgynous silhouettes for the first time for fall. “It’s a commercial question, I think we lost some of the buyers,” the young designer explained at his presentation, his last before switching to a runway format next spring.
His formative years in the port city of Jaffa, Israel, informed his color palette and fabric choices, with flowing strappy silk shift dresses printed with blurred sunset motifs in moody shades inspired by evenings on the beach and ecru tweed tailoring evoking the stones of the old town’s walls.
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His cinched tone-on-tone silhouettes layered mini wrap skirts over flared pants with cropped shirt jackets or trenchcoats, with fringed edging adding a rawness to the silhouettes. Crop tops, bralettes and corsets — done in a blue daisy patterned jacquard, laser-cut denim or in his signature stripes — showed more skin than is Benmoyal’s wont.
The textured finishes in the collection were a study in weaving techniques, a metaphorical extension of the designer’s experimentation with fabrics made from old cassette tape. The basis on which he initially built the brand, these were completely absent this season.
New for spring, meanwhile, were jersey pieces to broaden the proposition, simple T-shirts with contrast edging in vintage hues printed with motifs by German zoologist and artist Ernst Haeckel. There was also a line of cushions crafted from fabrics from Benmoyal’s previous collections as he branches into homeware to repurpose his own waste.
Launch Gallery: Benjamin Benmoyal RTW Spring 2024
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