Beyond the beaches: how Grand Cayman is stealing us away from 'flashy' Jamaica and Barbados
Grand Cayman had not topped my list of must-visit destinations. Actually, it was not even on the list.
This wasn’t personal. It’s just that whenever I heard “Grand Cayman”, a fleeting image of a generically pretty place would come to mind. And yet, hordes of visitors from across the globe flock to its sun-kissed shores every year: why?
After all, wasn’t it just the quiet and unassuming cousin of the more culturally-rich and obvious bunch, like Jamaica, Barbados and The Bahamas with their vibrant markets, food and music scenes? What was it about Grand Cayman?
So, I surprised myself when, without hesitation, I screamed: "Meet me with a rum punch at the airport!" when unexpectedly invited there.
So, as it turns out, I too am also easily seduced by the thought of bit of warmth on my bones and an opportunity to escape the noise, stress. and maddeningly temperamental UK weather.
Oh, and add to that that I’d be cushily ensconced at The Ritz Carlton? Come on! Vibrant markets, enriching culture, museums... catch you another time, darlings!
And watching the tall and swaying palm trees as I took in my first views of the island from my car window, it was hard not to be beguiled by the promised week of sun, sea and sand. Like a bolt of blinding Caribbean sunshine, suddenly my eyes saw things in a different light.
The moment I arrived at my hotel, it was clear that almost nothing would be as planned. Because The Ritz Carlton in Grand Cayman isn’t your average Ritz Carlton. It’s actually a surprising mini-global hub of culture, music, food and people from every corner of the world - and that’s just the staff.
This place - a wonder ripe for exploration, in itself - I would discover is a microcosm of the island.
While most Caribbean destinations thrive on deep-rooted culture often honed from centuries of African and Asian traditions from its once displaced people, with some European influence, Grand Cayman is a relatively new melting pot of cultures.
While foreigners outnumber native Caymanians, which has its cons, it does mean Grand Cayman is the only Caribbean destination with the most diverse and highest percentage of nationalities from every corner of the globe.
This is reflected in the overall vibe of the country, and especially in the food. I was in heaven as I tucked into Jamaican Ackee and Saltfish for breakfast, world class sashimi for lunch and Trinidadian roti and Malaysian curry for dinner, all made by the hands of chefs from that specific country.
Speaking of the food, Blue by Eric Ripert of New York’s Le Bernardin fame is one of the resort's main draws. The fare in this famous restaurant is an incredible blend of Caymanian seafood with haute French technique.
Outside the hotel, and the island’s cuisine is also a patchwork of flavours, but even more heavily influenced by its Caribbean neighbours. You’ll find jerk chicken served next to conch fritters, and curry goat alongside fresh, local seafood.
There's also a celebration of this diversity in art from local and international artists, who call Grand Cayman their home, that pepper almost every inch of the vast corridors. Their vibrant images paint a picture of a rich, “hidden” history, I was thrilled to discover.
Look closer, and Grand Cayman, the largest of the Cayman Islands, has roots dating back to the early 1600s when it was discovered by European explorers.
It was originally named Las Tortugas by the controversial Italian explorer and enslaver, Christopher Columbus, after all the sea turtles in the area. Over the centuries, it became a British territory, colonised by the British, and a notorious pirate hideout.
Today, it may appear to be less about its roots and more about offshore banking and luxury tourism. But in between, you’ll find a taste of that original Caymanian culture, if you know where, or care, to look.
But glimpses of Caymanian life can still be found in places like Bodden Town and at the Cayman Islands National Museum.
The idyllic Rum Point Beach Club on the east of the island, where you can sip on rum punches as you watch the sunset, is also a must visit (though you may need to hire a car to see it: bus services on Cayman are notoriously patchy) before heading to Heritage Kitchen, a beloved and rustic local Caribbean restaurant in the West Bay area of the island.
I also “found Grand Cayman” in its “quiet” hospitality. The island simply that doesn’t try too hard - in a good way.
Back at my hotel and I still felt that Caymanian vibe after my days out exploring. It’s how the place manages to make you feel special without creating an obvious fuss.
The Ritz Carlton has hosted a string of stars from Tom Cruise to the Kardashians. Celebs love the place, but it still feels like it’s all about you, not them. You could quite easily spend much of your time here with the endless activities, your insanely tasteful monochromatic room - or the seriously swish giant suite that looks like a private yacht.
But then you’d also miss out on Stingray City: a local favourite where I travelled to swim with the island’s famous stingrays on a sandbar in the middle of the turquoise ocean, with stop-offs to snorkel and enjoy the warm Caribbean water.
Now, about the sun, sea and sand that I thought would be my entire trip. I still soaked that up when I took a break from exploring, sipping on Pina Coladas (I can confirm that the best on on the island is at The Ritz Carlton) on the pristine, never-crowded Seven Mile Beach in front of my hotel. It still had to be done.
As for that million dollar question. What is it about Grand Cayman? I can now answer.
It’s the slow realisation that this island doesn’t need to put on a show and gives you what you never expected. It just is and when you know, you know, as one of the Jamaican bartenders told me. “Other islands nice, but dem can be too flashy. A little secret, maybe. This is the place to be,” he laughed.
And there it was: Grand Cayman: somewhere to be, rather than to do.
The Ritz-Carlton is a 15-minute drive from Cayman’s main airport in Georgetown. Rooms start from £450 for double occupancy; ritzcarlton.com