The Travel Diary: Things to do in Goa
Besides the charming beach that is bounded by the Arabian Sea, Goa boasts an extremely diverse topography.
With a rich and varied history, which includes 15th century Portuguese explorers and 1970s bohemian jetsetters, today's Goa is a feast for the senses. Catholic churches and Hindu shrines sit cheek by jowl to monuments to India's true religion - cricket pitches - and an easygoing welcoming vibe pervades.
What to do
Fort Cabo de Rama, which looks deceivingly no more than a ramshackle ruin, is the most interesting Goan fort.
The best way to explore South Goa is by motor scooter. Roads are generally fairly good and traffic is light outside of the peak season at the end of December and early January. Although it is India's smallest state, Goa boasts extremely diverse topography, and its position as an historical crossroads has left it littered with points of interest.
Fort Cabo de Rama is a prime example. Controlled variously by Hindu, Muslim, Portuguese and British occupiers over the centuries, the fort is now a charmingly underdeveloped historic monument. And the Catholic chapel within is still in use. Enjoy some of the best views of the Arabian Sea in near seclusion.
Fort Cabo de Rama, just north of Palolem, Canacona, Goa
Where to stay
Be prepared to be pampered at Mayfair Hideaway Spa Resort, an intimate yet not entirely remote hotel that has an infinity pool.
There are plenty of five-star hotel and resort options (and zero-star, yet comfortable beach shacks) in Goa, but perhaps none as charming as the Mayfair Hideaway Spa Resort. With just 30 rooms, the place feels intimate, but not too remote. The infinity pool faces a semi-private beach at the mouth of the Sal River, which can be reached by the hotel's own boat.
All kinds of pampering are available at the Susegado Spa on the premises, and guests can lounge in the clubby Lighthouse room while reading a book or watching a film.
Mayfair Hideaway Spa Resort, Rangali, Betul, Salcete, Goa, +91 832 272 1199, www.mayfairhotels.com
Where to shop
The Spiral Ark Project, like many other novelty stores, greet tourists with junk ranging from souvenir t-shirts to handmade trinkets.
Like many beach destinations around the world, Goa has an unfortunate preponderance of shops selling junk ranging from novelty t-shirts to useless trinkets. The Spiral Ark Project is a refreshing respite from this, offering truly unique and local produced food, spices, clothing, furniture and art. Like much of Goa, the vibe is definitely hippie chic. If that's not your style, the shop is also an excellent place to relax with a good book and a cup of coffee.
The Spiral Ark Project, 261 Devabag, Palolem, Canacona, Goa, +91 832 264 3870, www.spiralark.com
Where to eat
A tray of succulent, fresh oysters, allegedly recommended by celebrity chef Gordon Ramsey, is Surya's specialty.
Given its seaside location and wide range of culinary influences, there is a surprising lack of great restaurants in Goa. Mr. Surya, proprietor of an eponymous beachside restaurant, has concluded that the simplest approach is best. Specialising in fresh oysters and allegedly recommended by British celebrity chef Gordon Ramsey, Surya Beach Café's charm lies in its location right on Turtle Beach. Don't be put off by the plastic chairs and shabby appearance - oysters served on the half shell on a secret beach is luxury enough.
Surya Beach Café Bar & Restaurant, Galgibag (Turtle) Beach, Canacona, Goa, +91 992 3155 5396
Complete your trip to Goa by drinking like a Goan. They prefer their good old King's Beer for sentimental reasons.
Distilled from cashew nuts, feni is the local liquor and is available in both bootleg and distillery bottled form. Both are horrible. If you want to drink like a Goan, open a bottle of King's (not Kingfisher) beer. Although it is quickly losing ground to the brewing giants, this tasty pilsner is the sentimental choice. And to complete the experience, sip your beer at a Silent Disco in Palolem Beach - Goa's famed discotheques where patrons listen to music on colour coded headphones and DJs compete for the crowd's affection.
King's Beer is available at most bars and restaurants in Goa including Silent Noise, Club Neptune Point, Palolem Beach and Canacona.
