Brioni RTW Spring 2024

The wow effect. “That’s the reaction I want to get because imagine you wear it all day,” said Brioni executive design director Norbert Stumpfl of the brand’s touch factor.

The Italian brand hosted appointments for its women’s collection during New York Fashion Week, showcasing what started as a small women’s capsule in fall 2022 and is now growing into a fledgling new category for the Roman heritage menswear brand.

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“You have handmade buttonholes, all the stitching and all the interior things made by hand, so it’s almost a couture level of clothing. And at the same time, we’re using fabrics that are very natural, we hardly use any man-made fibers, only for linings. The rest of the collection is wools, linens, cashmere, wool-silk, linen-silk and natural fibers that give you comfort and luxury.”

The look: Quiet luxury and whisper-soft tailoring with handmade details that speak volumes about the Brioni difference.

Key pieces: Soft blazers structured the Old World way with horsehair in boyish, close to the body or very fitted silhouettes (which can be made to order, or tailored in-store); an easy dress in a apricot (likened to a Roman sunset) with gentle draping; a cashmere twinset; tuxedo trousers. “You can do what you want, which I think is quite new for a women’s brand,” said Stumpfl, adding that women can choose from the brand’s 6,000 fabrics.

Verdict: “This makes me want to throw out all my clothes,” said one market editor of the next-level quality, which has made fans of Kate McKinnon, Salma Hayek Pinault and royalty worldwide.

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Launch Gallery: Brioni RTW Spring 2024

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