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Britain's most gloriously spacious campsites

remote camping - douglas waters
remote camping - douglas waters

A region-by-region expert guide to the most scenic and serene canvas locations

It doesn’t seem that long ago I was setting up a tent in my 16ft-square living room. Happily sandwiched between sofa and coffee table, the quirks of the Government’s lockdown all seemed rather exciting at the time. I set off the fire alarm while melting marshmallows in the oven, left the curtains open so I awoke at sunrise, and brushed my teeth by the light of a head torch, only drawing the line at spitting on the floor. It was, I mused, as I scrubbed charred sugar from the grill the next morning, a truly terrible time to publish a camping guidebook.

One month on and my tent still hasn’t graced the green and pleasant pastures of the British countryside. But the mood has changed. The growing sense of anticipation across the country is almost palpable and, since Boris Johnson mooted the date of July 4 for hospitality businesses to reopen – albeit caveated by more ifs and buts than a Little Britain sketch – there’s been a clamouring to get camping in England. In the week ­after the announcement, bookings increased five-fold on coolcamping.com and last weekend was one of the website’s busiest on record.

Ironically, it all comes right at the point that the number of camping pitches available is set to fall. With social distancing likely to be a necessary part of summer holidays this year, some campsites are planning to open new meadows to allow campers to spread out, but many are instead scaling down the number of pitches by removing every other plot or limiting the total number of guests. In a survey of independent campsite owners, almost half said they would be reducing their capacity in some form this summer. And, with millions of bank holiday bookings already carried forward from the spring, spaces are filling up fast.

Few campers will argue that more space is a bad thing (all the more room for me to pitch my tent and bring my marshmallow oven) but not every holiday prospect is so inviting: queuing to enter museums – if they open; pub gardens parcelled up by perspex – if they open; and even fewer public toilets available (perhaps less of a problem if the pubs are closed).

This is precisely where camping comes into its own. For “camping”, as any homeschooler will know, is a verb. It is a “doing” word. I’ve never heard of friends going hoteling or B&Bing – such verbs do little to describe a holiday. But “camping”? Camping is the experience in and of itself. Forget the restaurants, the beaches and the destination of the trip, the real memories arise from simply spending time on the site itself; building dens, watching stars and playing socially distant games of cricket (stand back, I always hit the boundary). It’s the reason I hunt for campsites that allow campfires and have less phone signal than Timbuktu. And the reason I’ve had entire week-long holidays without ever touching the car. And it’s the reason, when I’m asked where I’m going on holiday this summer, I simply say I’m going camping. Isn’t that answer enough?

North

Moss Side Farm, Cumbria

In the quieter south-west of the Lake District overlooking the wide wetlands of Kirkby Pool, Moss Side Farm is home to a small, 20-pitch campsite set alongside the former Broughton to Coniston railway line. Today, the route provides a flat walking and cycling way – it’s a 35-minute stroll to Broughton in Furness – while the popular starting point for the hike up Old Man of Coniston is a 10-minute drive away. The campsite, divided into three fields, has contactless check-in and new 2m markings in the central washblock, while those avoiding the most popular hikes should try Black Combe.

A tent and two people from £18 per night: mosssidefarm.com

Moss Side Farm, Cumbria
Moss Side Farm, Cumbria

Walkmill Farm, Northumberland

Set inside a meander so bendy that the river almost surrounds it, Walkmill Campsite welcomes no more than a dozen or so tents at any one time, with space for caravanners further from the river. The latter will have to use their own toilets this summer, relieving pressure on shared facilities, and the tiny information centre will have a “one in, one out” policy. Campfires, however, are still allowed, and footpaths to the Northumberland Coast are as quiet as ever. It’s two miles to the beach, but stop short in quaint Warkworth to explore the well-preserved 12th-century castle.

A tent and two people from £16 per night: walkmillcampsite.co.uk

Walkmill Farm, Northumberland
Walkmill Farm, Northumberland

Butt Farm, East Yorkshire

History buffs feel at home on Butt Farm. A footpath and cycleway leads the two miles into Beverley with its famous minster, while in the opposite direction lies Yorkshire’s last working windmill and, in the neighbouring meadow, a Second World War anti-aircraft gun site. While the farm itself has a clutch of old buildings, the interiors were refurbished when the campsite opened in 2016 to provide the most up-to-date facilities, including e-bike charging and an outdoor dog shower. Campfires are permitted and barbecues are available for hire and there are reduced rates for walkers and cyclists.

A tent and two people from £22 per night: buttfarm.co.uk

Butt Farm, East Yorkshire
Butt Farm, East Yorkshire

Catgill Farm, North Yorkshire

Catgill Farm is one of many campsites reducing its capacity this summer, not that it was ever particularly short on space. The gently sloping meadow, overlooked by the old stone farmhouse, occupies a prized nine acres in the Yorkshire Dales, within walking distance of Bolton Abbey. Neighbouring Hesketh Farm Park is the usual draw for families, but swimming in the River Wharfe, exploring the famous priory ruins and crossing stepping stones to the beach-like picnic area opposite, provide ample crowd-free alternatives. Timber glamping pods are also available in a separate area of the farm, with hot tubs and en-suite shower rooms.

A tent and two people from £24 per night: catgillfarm.co.uk

Catgill Farm, North Yorkshire
Catgill Farm, North Yorkshire

The Paddock, Lancashire

This family-run smallholding first started offering camping for Ramsbottom’s annual festival before becoming a bona fide campsite in 2017. A 15-minute walk from the former mill town, now an artsy melting pot of farmers’ markets, cafés and artisan bakeries, the campsite allows no more than 10 tents at any one time and has a clutch of glamping options, including a pair of pods with sides that roll up to let you stargaze. The meadow is unusually flat, given the steep surroundings of the Irwell Valley – hike up to Peel Tower to take it all in or stroll the Irwell Sculpture Trail to avoid the climb.

A tent and two people from £20 per night: paddockcamping.com

The Paddock, Lancashire
The Paddock, Lancashire

Midlands and East

Mad Hatters, Cambridgeshire

There’s no perspex between the pitches at this Cambridgeshire campsite, but you will find them divided by tall swathes of wildflowers abuzz with damselflies in summer. Views are dominated by historic Ely Cathedral, reached via a pleasant two-mile walk beside the Ouse, and the car-free cycle trails of Thetford Forest Park are a half-hour drive in the other direction. Unsurprisingly, given its fenland location, wildlife at the campsite abounds. The owners have lent a helping hand, installing bird boxes, a pond and acres of newly planted trees, and a portion of their profits goes to environmental charities.

A tent and two people from £20 per night: madhatterscampsite.co.uk

Mad Hatters, Cambridgeshire
Mad Hatters, Cambridgeshire

Hidden Valley Camping, Worcestershire

There’s only room for a handful of tents in this tiny Teme Valley meadow before the land falls away, sloping down toward aptly named Stony Brook. Natural terraces provide additional aprons of grassy space, which is perfect for pitching the tent and having your own personal area, while a trio of pre-pitched bell tents bag some of the best spots in the dell below. The wild terrain puts a stop to any vehicles – campervans aren’t allowed and you’ll have to wheelbarrow belongings to your pitch – but the sense of seclusion is tough to beat. Witley Court, Wyre Forest and the Shropshire Hills are all within a 15-minute drive.

A tent and two people from £16 per night: hiddenvalleycamping.co.uk

Hidden Valley Camping, Worcestershire
Hidden Valley Camping, Worcestershire

Chapel House Farm, Herefordshire

Hay-on-Wye’s famous literary festival may have gone virtual this month, but, five miles south of the book town, in the little village of Craswall, Chapel House Farm hopes to open in reality from July, albeit with contactless check-in and 2m markings around facilities. The sprawling wild-flower meadows and ancient woodland make spreading out the 12 mown pitches easy, and there’s a backlog of wood for your evening campfire. Canoe hire is now permitted again from Whitney Bridge, for day trips on the River Wye, while some of the quietest mountains in the Brecon Beacons are on the doorstep.

A tent and two people from £25 per night: chapelhousefarm.com

Chapel House Farm, Herefordshire
Chapel House Farm, Herefordshire

Twitey’s Camping Meadows, Warwickshire

Camping pitches are individually mown into the waist-high cow parsley and wild grasses of this 14-acre meadow, linked together via a network of pathways. Vehicles aren’t permitted, making the inevitable games of hide-and-seek safe for children, and every pitch has its own campfire pit. Four miles from Stratford upon Avon, the area has its fair share of Shakespeare-related attractions – expect them to be quieter this year with the lull in foreign tourists – while Shakespeare’s Way offers a pleasant walking route beside the River Stour (but attempting the entire 146-mile trail is probably a bit of a stretch).

A tent and two people from £20 per night: twiteystipis.co.uk

Twitey’s Camping Meadows, Warwickshire
Twitey’s Camping Meadows, Warwickshire

Dale Farm Rural Campsite, Derbyshire

Pitch up on any of the terraced pitches shaped into the hillside of this Peak District farm and you might never need the car until you leave. A glut of attractions, including the “plague village” of Eyam (during the outbreak of 1665-66, the inhabitants quarantined themselves, in an act of self-sacrifice, to prevent the spread of the disease), are within easy cycling distance if you don’t mind a couple of hills and, if you do, the flat Monsal Head Trail is less than a mile away. The campsite’s farm shop, veg patch and welcoming attitude to campfires create a rustic, homespun feel, but there’s fast Wi-Fi, too, and new, spacious washrooms were installed this year.

A tent and two people from £20 per night: dale.farm

Dale Farm Rural Campsite, Derbyshire
Dale Farm Rural Campsite, Derbyshire

South East

Wardley Hill Campsite, Norfolk

Wildlife is thriving at this campsite on the Norfolk-Suffolk border, but don’t expect rabbits to heed the new “one in, one out” policy on the mown pathways. Campers can make their way to the spread-out pitches, cut like overgrown putting greens in a meadow of waist-high rough, and, over a dried-up stream to the boules area in the trees or a trio of seasonal ponds. The campsite is off-grid, with composting loos and gas-powered showers, but there will be new cleaning regimes and more sanitiser stations. It’s a mile to the River Waveney, with paddleboards available to hire from the campsite.

A tent and two people from £16 per night: wardleyhillcampsite.com

Wardley Hill Campsite, Norfolk
Wardley Hill Campsite, Norfolk

Teddy’s Farm, Hampshire

Halfway between Lymington and Brockenhurst, this New Forest campsite is opening an extra meadow this summer to increase the distance between pitches. It will still have the same informal, back-to-basics ambience – composting toilets, hot showers and water taps, but no electric hook-ups – and dogs, kids and bikes are all very welcome. Bringing the latter is especially recommended. The national park has a host of excellent car-free trails, good for spotting deer and New Forest ponies, while there’s a scenic ride from the campsite to the coast, ending at Henry VIII’s Hurst Castle.

A tent and two people from £24 per night: teddysfarm.co.uk

Teddy’s Farm, Hampshire
Teddy’s Farm, Hampshire

Beech Estate Campsite, East Sussex

There are more than 2,000 acres of woodland on the Beech Estate in East Sussex, and for the past few years, some 600 acres has been set aside for camping, with pathways weaving through the trees to individual clearings. There’s no electricity, no mobile phone signal and the showers are made from giant buckets, but there are pre-pitched bell tents with proper beds if you really need extra “comforts”. Bikes are permitted, den-building is, too, and campfire cooking is positively encouraged. It’s a 20-minute drive to Hastings and the south coast if you ever want to leave the trees.

A tent and two people from £39 per night: beechestate.co.uk

Beech Estate Campsite, East Sussex
Beech Estate Campsite, East Sussex

Maple Field, Hampshire

Though there’s room for around 30 tents at Maple Field, campers have been known to have the place to themselves, partly as it only opened last year, so is still little-known, and partly because it occupies a sleepy hinterland on the Dorset-Hampshire border, neither on the coast nor in the New Forest. The result, however, is a peaceful sprawl of wild flowers that’s still within driving distance of those attractions, with campfires and barbecues and boxes of vegetables from polytunnels at the entrance. Owner Nick is a wellspring of local knowledge and can help to plan local walking routes, including via the National Nature Reserve a mile away.

A tent and two people from £24 per night: coolcamping.com (Maple Field does not have its own website at present)

Maple Field, Hampshire
Maple Field, Hampshire

Star Field, Kent

An hour from the capital, in Kent’s High Weald, this tiny off-grid site is the perfect antidote to London life, with no lighting, no electricity and an outdoor, solar-powered shower you can bathe under in your swimming gear. There’s an excellent farm shop within walking distance, where they sell logs for your campfire, and a fishery next door for anglers. Bewl Water, Scotney Castle and Bedgebury National Pinetum (a world-leading collection of over 12,000 conifers) are all within a 15-minute drive, though there are good walks locally, too, through neighbouring woods and the farm’s own apple orchards.

A tent and up to six people from £35 per night: starfieldcamping.co.uk

Star Field, Kent
Star Field, Kent

Ye Olde Swan, Oxfordshire

This pub campsite, beside the oldest bridge on the River Thames, usually has more than 30 camping pitches on a river island opposite. There’ll be almost half that for 2020, so every camper has more riverside space, and if you don’t fancy a pint indoors, Ye Olde Swan’s mobile pizza oven and prosecco bar make regular appearances. You can fish from your pitch or walk the Thames Path, while paddleboards and kayaks are available to hire at a jetty beside the beer garden. Neighbouring Bampton (a 50-minute walk) doubled as Downton village in the popular ITV drama.

A tent and two people from £16 per night: yeoldeswan.co.uk

Ye Olde Swan, Oxfordshire
Ye Olde Swan, Oxfordshire

South West

Billingsmoor Farm, Devon

If you dread the thought of a communal toilet block, this elevated Devon campsite with views across the Exe Valley, offers “en-pitch” loos and a sink at every spot. Footpaths thread the 400-acre organic farm, and the Lammie family are happy to give short tours. Though it feels like a rural backwater, it’s less than three miles off the M5, putting Exmoor, Dartmoor and the South Coast all within 40 minutes, while the walkable village of Butterleigh has a superb pub with a garden. For food, though, the farm’s own produce is available – use the campfire grills provided or try the outdoor pizza oven.

A tent and up to six people from £43 a night: billingsmoorfarm.co.uk

Billingsmoor Farm, Devon
Billingsmoor Farm, Devon

Cornish Tipi Holidays, Cornwall

Previously a glamping Shangri-La, with tipis arranged in an enchantingly overgrown old quarry, this 20-acre site is now open to regular campers, too. From spacious meadow pitches, to secluded clearings amid blackberry bushes and gorse, there’s a space for every type of camper, though families are particularly in their element. If you’re not boating on the lake or catching fish for your campfire, it’s a 45-minute walk to the beach. The various coves around Port Isaac Bay are the closest, linked by a particularly scenic stretch of the South West Coast Path.

A tent and two people from £36 per night: cornishtipiholidays.co.uk

Cornish Tipi Holidays, Cornwall
Cornish Tipi Holidays, Cornwall

Rouselands Farm, Wiltshire

Things haven’t been quiet for the Banwell family during lockdown. They’ve been lambing, calving, looking after horses, and their fresh meat boxes have sold out. Watching this hive of activity is one of the joys of pitching on the farm, which they started in 2015 and opened for camping three years later. There are 10 spaces and a new washblock with modern shower and toilet facilities and, while a couple of small campervans are permitted, the lack of hook-ups means that tenters rule the roost. Just west of the Cotswolds, there are plenty of pubs nearby and it’s a 20-minute drive to The National Arboretum.

A tent and two people from £12.75 per night: rouselandsfarmcampsite.co.uk

Rouselands Farm, Wiltshire
Rouselands Farm, Wiltshire

Frome Meadow, Dorset

Popular with swimmers, this off-grid campsite occupies five private acres of space along the banks of the River Frome. Inflatable rings are provided for drifting downstream and long shallow stretches are perfect for children to paddle in. Despite two huge meadows, there’s a limit of around 25 tents at any one time and though facilities extend no further than loos, showers and washing-up sinks, they’re ­extremely well kept. Follow a trail through adjacent woodland to Moreton Village, the quaint former home of T E Lawrence (his cottage is now owned by the National Trust) or drive 15 minutes to Lulworth Cove.

A tent and two people from £20 per night: fromemeadowcampsite.com

Cool Camping Britain, (Punk Publishing; £16.95) is out now; coolcamping.com