Danang: Vietnam’s rising star
The coastal city is a thriving mix of new and old
Residents congregate at the My Khe beach for their morning exercises.
White-capped waves tumble on shimmer-ing sand turned molten by the rising sun. The surge washes away the footprints on My Khe beach left by a file of joggers and brisk walkers.
In the crepuscular light, a dozen ladies in swim caps and one-pieces slap their arms and thighs vigorously while shouting phrases in Vietnamese.
Here in Danang, residents congregate at My Khe and other beaches for their morning exercise at the break of dawn.
Still, the waters of the South China Sea, known to locals as the East Vietnam Sea, do not lap gently at the city’s shores, particularly at this time of the year.
It simmers and froths, boiling over onto the beaches where American troops first landed in 1965 to fight in the Vietnam War (known here as the American War).
But 50 years on, the war is a subdued memory — hardly mentioned during our four-day trip.
The vibrant coastal city is clearly impatient to move on: It is now one of the fastest growing urban centres in Vietnam, and recently dubbed the “Singapore of Vietnam” by Bloomberg.
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Majestic structures
In the city centre, the futuristic administrative building housing all the government offices is a shiny sail-shaped skyscraper, overlooking the Han River that threads through Danang.
Across the river, several bridges link the east and west banks of the Han.
The most iconic is the Dragon Bridge or Cau Rong — a six-lane, 666m-long bridge, built in 2013. Yes, the number six is considered a lucky number, and the Rong bridge is said to be a symbol of luck for the city.
The majestic structure is illuminated with thousands of LED lights every night, and on weekends, it breathes fire and spouts water for tourists.
Along both banks, and even under the bridge, cafes, coffee shops and restaurants thrive — but it is no tourist belt — most eateries are chock full of locals, with a smattering of expatriates.
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All-in-one resorts
Still, many tourists may not make it this far because the resorts along the beaches (see side bar) are vast villas on sprawling compounds, overflowing with facilities, including multiple restaurants, spas, clubhouses and golf courses.
But it’s not all just beaches, spas and golf in Danang. Three UNESCO world heritage sites representative of different facets of Vietnam’s history are just a short trip away from Danang City.
Hoi an ancient town
The Hoi An central market is a hubbub of activity in the morning.
The town of Hoi An, just 30 to 40 minutes from Danang, is a former trading town from the 16th century.
Its hundreds of timber houses, mar-ket and the iconic Japanese bridge, all centuries old, are remarkably well preserved.
For a day trip, take a cooking class, or visit the Hoi An central market in the morning; go shopping in the afternoon — the town is well-known for its tailors and craftsmen; then in the evening, admire the time-worn streets in the diffused glow of its silk lanterns.
Hue imperial city & monuments
Central Vietnam was where the Nguyen Lords, who unified Vietnam in 1802, ruled the country from. The ancient capital, Hue, is a two to three hour drive from Danang.
You can spend a morning roaming the imperial city, which is reminiscent of a scaled-down version of Beijing’s Forbidden City, and visit the elaborate tombs of Vietnam’s past kings.
The grandest is that of the dynasty’s second last king — Khai Dinh.
My Son Sanctuary
Called the Angkor Wat of Vietnam, the sanctuary was the capital of the ancient Champa Kingdom.
There are over 70 Hindu temples and tombs built between the 4th and 13th centuries.
While historically significant, the sanctuary suffered damage during the Vietnam War, and many buildings are now partial ruins. Driving there takes about an hour from Hoi An, and an-hour-and-a-half from Danang.
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Traveller’s tips
Fly
Jetstar Asia starts thrice-weekly direct flights to Danang on Nov 27. It will be the first budget airline connecting Singapore and Danang.
Stay
Intercontinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort
The luxury resort perched on the slopes of the Monkey Mountain on the Son Tra Peninsula has an unrivalled view of the Danang coast.
It boasts award-winning spa services, excellent restaurants, including La Maison 1888, which is helmed by Michelin-starred chef Pierre Gagnaire, and its own cable car.
The Premier Village
The all-inclusive family resort on My An beach has everything you need while on holiday — four restaurants, a kid’s club, and a spa.
It provides a shuttle to Hoi An, and there are daily activities and classes from tai chi to yoga to parasailing or snorkelling. Each villa comes with up to four bedrooms, a private swimming pool and a kitchen.
Fusion Maia
A spa or facial treatment a day, and a meal at its restaurant is included in the stay at this spa resort for massage junkies. The spa uses its own blend of essential oils, and there are seven scents — one for each day of the week.
There’s also a yoga studio, steam bath and sauna.
La Residence Hue
The boutique hotel in a restored 1926 French art moderne building sits in a lush garden by the Perfume River in Hue. Most rooms have a view across the Perfume River to the royal city of Hue, and the hotel can arrange for you to have lunch with a descendent of the royal family, if you so wish.
Angsana Lang Co
The luxurious Angsana resort lies an hour away from Danang at the breathtaking Lang Co Bay. The white egrets that flock to the padi fields there are what give the bay its name — Lang Co means “stork village”.
The resort is the first to open Angsana’s signature pan-Asian restaurant, Rice Bowl.
When to go
Go during the summer months from March to August for sunny days and a calmer sea. Expect rain during the mild winter months from October to January.
By Amelia Tan for Weekender Singapore
Weekender would like to thank Jetstar Asia and the hotels involved for making this trip possible.
