Dion Lee’s signature ethos is one that mashes up utilitarian codes with a subversive, sexy mindset. For his spring collection, the designer said he further explored this narrative by “playing around with tool shed corsetry.”
“I’m quite rough when I like to pin things, cut things up and collage them together. It was a cut-and-paste of a lot of ideas that I’ve kind of been working into over my whole career,” he said of his naive, fashionable approach to industrial language.
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Corsetry came with trompe l’oeil wrenches as external boning on a white shirting bodysuit or with workwear boots’ cord lacing while curved, jewelry-like bent nails upheld fluid dresses across the ribcage. Screws were tacked to garments in place of studs, and utility pockets adorned the hems of tailoring, a strong assortment of workwear garb (undone overalls, cargo pants, a utility kilt) and tough, thigh-high boots (an ongoing collaboration with Paris-based Both).
Lee balanced the tough details (including edgy leathers) with a mix of his signature, sexy cutout laces (which looked fresh with elevated basketball shorts); collaborative parachute boots with Ancuta Sarca (made out of Lee’s deadstock materials), and sensual knit dressing against sportif jackets and sharp tailored layers.
Inspired by his fall collection’s techniques of draping electrical cables, Lee said he pushed the idea further to derive the collection’s new gathered volumes, best seen through his drapy, bubbled leather skirts that were airbrushed from the side in metallic silver and red-hot hues. Lee further explained that the show’s light installation (by multidisciplinary digital artist Jacolby Satterwhite) inspired the collection’s play on light and reflectivity, also seen through his ombre jeans and frayed, laminated denim and workwear pants.
The back tag of a khaki laminated utility pant was even plugged into the electrical cable seen slung around a model’s shoulder — electrifying!
Launch Gallery: Dion Lee RTW Spring 2024
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