A WOOLF IN CHIC CLOTHING: Kim Jones and Dior aren’t finished celebrating the Bloomsbury Group.
The French fashion house is supporting “Bring No Clothes: Bloomsbury and Fashion,” billed as the first major exhibition to explore the style impact of the famous cultural collective, whose ringleaders Virginia Woolf, Duncan Grant, E.M. Forster, Vanessa Bell, John Maynard Keynes and Lady Ottoline Morrell helped set the template for modern dressing.
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Slated to run from Sept. 13 to Jan. 7, 2024, in a new gallery space at Charleston, the home and studio of Bell and Grant in Lewes, England, “Bring No Clothes” is to feature looks by Dior, Fendi, Comme des Garçons, Christopher Bailey-era Burberry, Erdem and S.S. Daley along with necklaces and bags worn by Woolf and Bell.
In tandem, Particular Books, an imprint of Penguin, will publish “Bring No Clothes: Bloomsbury and the Philosophy of Fashion,” penned by journalist Charlie Porter, the exhibition curator.
He said the artists, writers and thinkers associated with Bloomsbury “engaged with fashion in dynamic ways, from philosophical thinking to radical dressing.”
Via garments, archival objects, paintings, photos and manuscripts, the exhibition examines how the collective explored a liberated sexuality, feminism, queerness and pacifism, among other ideas.
In Porter’s view, the assembled artifacts “shed new light on their lives, as well as bring insight into how we dress today. By mixing together the past with the present, I hope the show will encourage visitors to reconsider their future relationship with fashion.”
The showcase will also debut never-before-seen portraits of Bell and Grant, and fashion designs by Jawara Alleyne, incorporating Bell’s fetish safety pins, and Ella Boucht, who uses tailoring to reimagine gender.
In parallel with “Bring No Clothes,” Charleston will mount a second exhibition devoted to contemporary artist Jonathan Baldock.
Jones grew up in Lewes in the south of England, not far from Charleston, the farmhouse Grant and Bell took over in 1916, turning it into the epicenter of their circle of writers, intellectuals, philosophers and artists. — MILES SOCHA
MORE SUPPORT: MAC Cosmetics is taking its annual Viva Glam campaign a step further this year.
Rather than introducing a limited-edition lipstick collection to raise funds for organizations supporting equal rights, the brand will launch a Day of Giving on June 9, during which 100 percent of all lipstick sales will benefit LGBTQ+ and women’s rights organizations.
All lipstick sales made online and at freestanding MAC stores (excluding lip glosses, balms, palettes and primers) will count toward the effort.
“Opening up [the campaign] this year to include over 200 shades of lipstick in all sizes, allows us to broaden our reach and have interesting conversations with even those consumers who may not be aware of Viva Glam,” said MAC’s senior vice president and global chief marketing officer Aïda Moudachirou-Rébois.
Launched at the height of the AIDS epidemic in 1984, Viva Glam sought to raise funds for organizations supporting the LGBTQ+ community through annual limited-edition collections. The first face of the initiative was RuPaul, and the brand has since tapped prominent pop culture figures like Lady Gaga, Rihanna and Mary J. Blige to front the campaign and collaborate on limited-edition sets.
To date, Viva Glam has donated over $500 million to grantees such as the Hetrick-Martin Institute and the L.A. LGBT Center, and in 2019 the brand expanded the program to benefit women’s rights organizations as well.
Last year MAC trialed its Day of Giving in the U.K., resulting in raising $60,000 over a 24-hour period and prompting the brand to go global with the initiative, with the aim of raising $500,000.
“That was massive for that market — we need to evolve our initiatives so they can be as impactful, and as breakthrough as they were when they were first born,” said Moudachirou-Rébois.
In March, the brand refreshed its 30-year-old Back to MAC sustainability program, partnering with Close the Loop and Plastics for Change to optimize its packaging recycling processes and support plastic collection workers.
“These issues have changed and evolved over the years, and the technology available to improve on these issues has also evolved — we have the ability now to touch more people,” said Moudachirou-Rébois, adding that 2024 will mark both the 30th anniversary of Viva Glam and the 40th anniversary of MAC’s founding.
“From 1994 to 2023, Viva Glam is still the most important part of our brand — that has stayed the same,” said Moudachirou-Rébois. — NOOR LOBAD
CHANEL LINEUP: The 18th annual Chanel Tribeca Artist Awards Program has debuted an all-female lineup for 2023.
Tribeca Festival award winners will be gifted original works created by artists selected for the program by curator Racquel Chevremont. This year’s artists include Ana Benaroya, Beverly Fishman, Christie Neptune, Lisa Lebofsky, Natia Lemay, Patricia Encarnacion, Renee Cox, Sheree Hovsepian, Shinique Smith and Wanda Raimundi-Ortiz. Their artwork will be exhibited during the film festival, which runs June 7 through June 18 at Spring Studios.
“Our focus is on giving women in the arts their flowers and celebrating their trailblazing contributions to contemporary art,” Chevremont said in a statement announcing this year’s program. The curator also leads a video that features interviews with the featured artists. “Throughout recorded history, from the cave painting to the camera, women have been driving forces in art around the world. Yet female creatives remain woefully underrepresented. It’s imperative that we continue to solicit and showcase the work of women artists.”
Chanel is a longtime supporter of the Tribeca Festival, and pays homage to Gabrielle Chanel’s commitment to art and creativity through events including the “Through Her Lens” program for emerging female filmmakers. — KRISTEN TAUER
BEY AND MCQUEEN: Beyoncé was red-hot in a rouge Alexander McQueen ensemble for the second of five London performances of her “Renaissance World Tour.”
Inspired by look 41 from the fashion house’s fall 2023 collection, the custom-made style was composed of an embroidered red dress and gloves, and paired with metallic red boots.
Selected by stylist Shiona Turini, the dress and gloves featured hand-embroidered bugle beading, which twinkled under the stage lights as the singer performed.
This is not the first fall 2023 inspired McQueen look Beyoncé has worn for her world tour; previously she wore a heavily silver beaded jumpsuit from the label to the opening of her tour.
The fall 2023 collection, like its pre-fall 2023 campaign that debuted earlier this month, placed emphasis on the power and elegance that comes with sartorialism.
“It feels smart in the times we live in; you want to feel put together and strong against such chaos,” creative director Sarah Burton said of the brand’s fall collection.
Beyoncé is the latest to join in on Burton’s power dressing portfolio.
For the May 6 coronation service, Catherine, Princess of Wales, donned a long white Alexander McQueen gown with embroidered flowers symbolizing the four countries that make up Great Britain.
The “Renaissance World Tour” kicked off in Stockholm on May 10, and has seen Beyoncé sport looks from Loewe, Mugler, Alexander McQueen and David Koma.
Sparkles and metallics have been a mainstay, with searches for “silver bodysuit” and “silver corset” rising 42 percent and 669 percent, respectively, since the first night of the tour.
Overall, the search term for “Renaissance tour outfits” has increased by 658 percent. — HIKMAT MOHAMMED
BIGGER HOME: Frances Valentine, the lifestyle brand, is expanding its home offerings with home decor brand Annie Selke.
The Frances Valentine x Annie Selke capsule collection features 28 styles in a rainbow-hued assortment of flora and fauna, painterly stripes and geometric patterns across bedding, decorative pillows and throws. Details include embroidery and pompons. It will be introduced Thursday.
Prices range from $38 to $448.
Among the offerings are duvet covers, embroidered pillowcases, appliquéd pillows and embroidered pillows and throws.
Elyce Arons, cofounder and chief executive officer of Frances Valentine, said, “We wanted to create home products because like styling yourself, decorating your home is so personal. Having fun, joyful, bold pieces you love makes the place you live happier.”
Asked about new categories in the pipeline, Arons said the brand recently launched its first signature fragrance and believes more beauty products would complement it. She plans to add more categories in the future but couldn’t divulge them yet.
In the home category, Frances Valentine already offers notepaper, wine bags, beach umbrellas, sling chairs, beach towels and dinner napkins, among other offerings.
Frances Valentine’s offerings range from dresses, tops, tunics, caftans and jumpsuits to handbags, swim, pajamas, hats, home, fragrance, shoes and jewelry. — LISA LOCKWOOD
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