Elie Saab RTW Spring 2024

Elie Saab invited his customer on a moonlight serenade this season. The satellite was suspended as the backdrop of his Palais de Tokyo runway. Models emerged against a dappling blue light meant to reflect the color of the night sky against the water of the Mediterranean.

He played with the moon phases in dots and motifs, and in patterns that recalled the moonscape. There was plenty of Saab’s signature starry sparkle.

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On gowns, slits were higher and more defined. He showed plenty of midriff-baring cutouts, and added some on-trend bra-tops-for-the-brave that were little more than a piece of lace paired with pencil skirts.

The moon may have been the liftoff, but not really the destination.

Saab cites diverse themes from season to season, but sticks to his signature shapes tailored to the millimeter on the models. “For me the inspiration of the collection represents 25 percent of the collection. For me it’s more important to do clothes that women like to wear. This is my target,” he said backstage.

To that end he delivers with white denim jumpsuits, pleated skirts and light dresses fit for a garden party. Even the most delicate of tulle skirts had pockets.

All that is background for the brand as it moves into the lifestyle space.

He opened five retail stores this year in the Middle East and, most recently, Monte-Carlo, and has gone big on furniture and branded real estate projects, with 12 properties opened in the last two years. He has six more in the pipeline for 2024, said Elie Saab Group chief executive officer Elie Saab Jr.

“This is where a lot of the [business] evolution will come from,” said Saab Jr. “We are working a lot on those plans, and we are still evaluating our entry into the hospitality world.”

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Launch Gallery: Elie Saab RTW Spring 2024

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