Kobi Halperin wanted to provide a mood boost for lovers of the Ungaro aesthetic. He compared the feel-good effect of a bouquet of flowers with the joy of when a client tries on the perfect dress and her eyes light up. He splashed his designs with blurred blooms or more literal interpretations of the paintings of French artist Claire Basler, which reminded him of pressing fragile blossoms between the pages of books when he was a child, hoping to keep them for posterity.
For the silhouettes, he mined Ungaro’s signature fabrications and penchant for vivid prints and shine, mixing these with plain designs in vivid hues of lemon yellow, turquoise or Barbie pink, as well as black and white.
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He offered up pleated and draped dresses and separates that were intended to offer a versatility of wardrobe options by opening up possibilities for combination that could also be worked as a total look, as with a selection of voluminous off-the-shoulder blouses and fluid skirts.
These were spliced in with strong-shouldered, straight-cut suit jackets and fit-and-flare or front-fold pants in satin-backed crêpe done in solid brights or monochrome, or with renditions in silvery-coated lace. The embellishments came by way of sequin-embroidered 3D flowers, to be worn on the lapel, adorning the neckline of a dress, and even crafted into a bikini. There were no retiring wallflowers here.
Launch Gallery: Ungaro RTW Spring 2024
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