Nearly a decade has passed since Indian designers Falguni and Shane Peacock were last seen at New York Fashion Week, but this season they returned with a surprising assist from image architect Law Roach.
The show was somewhat a comeback for Roach as well. Aside from creating memorable fashion moments on star client Zendaya, he’s been selective about new creative undertakings and hasn’t stepped in to direct a collection since his one-off collaboration with Hervé Lèger, which bowed in June.
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But the opportunity to link up with the Peacocks was one too good to pass on. Prior to meeting them at the opening of Mumbai’s Ambani Cultural Center, he had borrowed pieces of theirs to style with, so he thought it was destiny that he should bring his own flavor to them.
“The brand is known for opulence and beading — all the things we love about India,” Roach said backstage. “So what I brought to it is this clash of cultures. What does it look like if Mumbai meets New York dead in the middle?”
On the runway, it looked like cool couture with a streetwise sensibility. Gray sweatshirts and joggers (these ones were cashmere, not cotton) made the idea of taking a peaked lapel blazer studded with crystals or a pair of sequin basketball shorts a workable proposition for day-to-day. Other references to athleisure, like cutout bra tops, varsity stripes and baseball caps, upped the cool factor on otherwise standard evening fare, as did shredded denim accents.
What was lacking were homages to traditional Indian costume. There weren’t any aside from the opener, a white shirt with a long tail thrown over the shoulder like a sari.
Nonetheless, the Peacocks were excited to be putting the spotlight on craftsmen in their native country. “It’s a very proud moment for us to be back showing on an international platform,” Falguni said.
Launch Gallery: Falguni Shane Peacock RTW Spring 2024
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