Homme Plissé Issey Miyake sent a strong, conceptual collection — full of luscious colors and textures — down the runway for fall. It was conceived following exchanges with French designer-artist Ronan Bouroullec, marking the brand’s first creative collaboration.
“As a design team, we are drawn by Ronan’s drawings. There’s something poetic about his work and for this collection,” the Homme Plissé Issey Miyake design team said. Their idea was to integrate into the garments his design — but not as a motif or pattern.
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The progression of the show’s looks channeled the idea that first one was viewing art from afar, before deep-diving into the work itself. Items of clothing hung on the white walls of the Palais de Tokyo venue, further blurring the line between art, design and fashion.
“It’s like we are enclosed, enveloped in the work. And within that world we are playing around with his materials,” the team said.
It named the collection “Immersed in the Wilds of Creativity.” And it was that. The opening look, with a white pleated top, was the canvas for swirling colors of orange, brown and green. The quality of brushstrokes was apparent.
Asymmetry abounded as sleeves and hems seemed extruded in other looks, also mixing hues to delightful effect. Those popped, too, on trousers, shirts and oversized ponchos. The ”cushion coat” could be folded into a pocket that looked like a pillow.
A raspberry-hued jacket was worn over a brown button-down shirt, bordeaux top and salmon turtleneck together with orange trousers — all pleated. It sounds busy, but as with the rest of the collection, it was only striking.
Launch Gallery: Homme Plissé Issey Miyake Men’s Fall 2024
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