In its almost 50-year history Iceberg has been the blank canvas for a broad range of designers, its heritage in the making conjured in arty or hard-edged ways.
James Long, the Brit who took over eight years ago, has been distilling his own version, embedding his love of sportswear-meet-raver attire. Most recently he seems to be stepping on the gas of the latter.
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In keeping with last season’s vibe he referenced old brand campaigns, including one from 2010 by photography duo Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott portraying Carolyn Murphy in a snakeskin-printed frock with front pockets.
The look informed Long’s hard-edged spring collection, which was all about the biker jacket done in faux snakeskin and faux leather. It was spliced and turned into harnesses tossed over pristine shirts, patchworked into overcoats with mixed-media panels, reinvented into full-skirted trenchcoats with python panels. They were paired with barely their miniskirts, faux leather pants with zippers running up and down the legs and crisscross tops that were revealing, to say the least.
As the coed show progressed, Long’s knack for combining different materials was channeled into softer designs, to greater effect. Shiny utilitarian shirts paired with matte pants, both in poplin; cargo-inspired long skirts and cropped tank tops, as well as jumpsuits worn with bralettes were much-needed palate cleansers. Ditto for tuxedo-inspired mixed-media overcoats and suits, the latter occasionally worn by men with pleated kilt-like faux leather drilled skirts.
The show, which also marked the launch of Iceberg’s latest scent “Be Wonderfully You,” demanded confidence aplenty.
Launch Gallery: Iceberg RTW Spring 2024
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