Jenny Packham looked to Truman Capote’s 1966 Black and White Ball and to the writer’s socialite friends, the “swans,” who donned gowns and masks for what was billed as the party of the century.
Packham said she wasn’t thinking about the socialites’ specific looks. Instead, she was imagining the chandeliers at The Plaza in New York where the event unfurled, “the elegance and glamour of the night, and the simplicity and freshness” of the clothing in that era.
More from WWD
“I originally wanted to do an all-white collection,” said the designer, who later decided to add color so that it wouldn’t get confused with her bridal offer.
Her palette took in pale sugared almond shades of violet, baby pink, pale blue and mint green with dashes of silver and gold.
As always, it sparkled plenty. Highlights included an embellished violet gown with long sleeves, strong shoulders and a round collar. Although it was covered in beading and crystals, the silhouette was simple, and oozed youthfulness.
A simple, off-the-shoulder navy blue dress with gold embellishment at the top channeled the clean lines of the late ’60s.
A slim, pale blue gown with bracelet sleeves and Art Deco-ish embellishment down the front had the ease of a caftan, while a silvery dress with a deep V-neck was a wink to the coming disco decade.
A sparkly jumpsuit with a cape also conjured the ’70s, when some of those swans, and others from Capote’s circle, would pivot from The Plaza to the stages of Studio 54.
Launch Gallery: Jenny Packham RTW Spring 2024
Best of WWD