Junichi Abe shifted gears to a more singular vision for fall, exploring the idea of “masterpiece” in careful craft and tailoring.
Abe’s penchant to play with layering remained, but it was mostly toned down and appeared as the core concept on only a handful of outfits. His reliance on patchwork and piling on items was replaced by restraint, and to good effect.
More from WWD
Instead he focused on strong cuts with exceptional details such gold grommets pooling on the bottom of trench coats, embellished collars and embroidery on blazers.
Models descended the central escalators of the retro-futuristic Sorbonne University building chosen for the show. It marked transition from the loose elements of tribalism seen in the spring collection, which was shown in the courtyard of the same building. The contrast was evident not only in the interior architecture, but in the emotion of the collection. Abe wanted to turn spring’s loose fit and sportswear feeling inside out.
The rich embellishments made the tailoring appear even stronger — delicate gold filigree on pockets or the hem of a jacket, or glass beads adding subtle shimmer to plaid — and was a study in restraint rooted in classic shapes, including traditional wool blazers, cardigans, and trench coats in a muted palette of dark green, grays, and beige. Volume was achieved with thick textiles, though one cloud of a jacket was puffed up like a breath of fresh air.
Color came from the accessories, in shoulder bags with pops of pink. While reworking items has always been a core tenet of his philosophy, Abe wanted to display that small touches on classic pieces is a way to approach the belief. The focus on masterpieces was a masterstroke.
Launch Gallery: Kolor RTW Fall 2024
Best of WWD