Missoni RTW Spring 2023

Missoni’s new look is graphic, sexy and scanty. With his first womenswear show, new creative director Filippo Grazioli focused on figure-hugging dresses slit up to the hipbone, many of them gossamer and worn over knit briefs or bodysuits in the Italian brand’s signature space-dyed knits.

Gone were the earthy and mineral shades, replaced by black-and-white, primary shades of yellow, blue and pink, plus shimmering silver. While light and slinky knitwear predominated, Grazioli also picked out recognizable Missoni patterns in crystals and sequins, upping the glamour quotient even further.

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Panels of filmy chiffon were inserted in the midriffs of minidresses, or across half the derriere, and the show climaxed with a series of tube dresses so finely knit they were see-through.

During a preview, Grazioli said he was influenced by house founders Rosita and Ottavio Missoni, who in 1967 showed a collection on models without bras because they arrived in the wrong color. The exposed breasts caused a scandal, getting the couple banned from a fashion event in Florence.

On Friday morning at Milan’s Bocconi University, few eyebrows were raised at the X-ray view of Joan Smalls’ torso, but everyone noticed that a new day was dawning at Missoni, sexy at the top of its rejuvenation agenda.

The clothes mostly impressed with their delicacy and daring. Indeed, the clunkers in this overly long show featured too much knitting bunched up around the waist or bosom.

The change in creative direction at Missoni is part of the five-year plan presented by chief executive officer Livio Proli, who joined the company from the Giorgio Armani Group in 2020.

Launch Gallery: Missoni RTW Spring 2023

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