Mossi Traoré this season wanted to revisit a key inspiration behind his brand’s DNA: couture. “I am passionate about the work of Madame Grès,” he said. “I find that tradition of French couture is still a beautiful heritage.”
Traoré also took a cue from Korean artist Lee Bul. “She inspired me to create this combination of couture and urban,” he explained.
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The designer takes an architectural approach to fashion, creating asymmetric volumes with fluid draping, graceful folds and sharp pleats, with the latter nodding to Grès as well as Issey Miyake.
Traoré had in mind fashion silhouettes from India, as well. “I am also inspired by cultural encounters, marriages,” he said, explaining that springs from his own dual Malian and French heritage.
Traoré’s collection lineup came primarily in black and white, with bursts of saffron and eggplant colors in the mix, which included fabrics such as dyed Japanese denim.
The volumes he used often pair a flared shape (think bat-wing form) with a more formfitting silhouette. A white asymmetric shirt with trapeze swing was worn atop a layered gray skirt draped closer to the body. A sleeveless black top with cascading tucks and folds counterbalanced wide blue denim jeans.
Streetwear was hardly an element appearing in this strong sartorial collection, which took couture elements of yesteryear resolutely into the present day.
Launch Gallery: Mossi RTW Spring 2024
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