Niccolò Pasqualetti RTW Spring 2024

Niccolò Pasqualetti, a recent recipient of a Camera Moda Fashion Trust grant and a semifinalist at last year’s LVMH Prize, staged three small fashion shows on Tuesday, covering the walls, floor and stools of a small L-shaped gallery in white Tyvek fabric.

The septic space heightened the futuristic vibe of his spring collection, a mashup of Space Age and medieval silhouettes.

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The simple tabard-like constructions of some shirts and coats compelled one model to break out in an expressive dance, flapping her arms and letting the scalloped cotton panels billow. She wore wonky silver lensless glasses that dangled geometric charms. (Pasqualetti makes jewelry, too.)

The designer stuck mostly to dry and crisp fabrics, save for a jarring detour into colorful metallic leather that resembled foil. Most of the time his blend of the organic and the modern gelled pretty well.

The hefty leather and drill outerwear with multiple utility pockets looked like something both a hobbit and a hipster might wear.

Hailing from Tuscany, Italy, the designer had experiences designing womenswear at The Row, Loewe and Alighieri before launching his signature brand, which has a sustainable, artisanal and genderless bent.

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Launch Gallery: Niccolò Pasqualetti RTW Spring 2024

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