At least one New York Fashion Week show has been a mashup of army meets underwear: Dion Lee’s fall/winter 2018 show, which used just four words to describe the line: lingerie, military, sensuality, utility.
But the fusion wasn’t as seamless as it sounds, and it seems that’s exactly what the designer wanted.
Women strutted down the runway in trench coat-style dresses and blazers with bras sewn onto them so it looked as if the model put on the dress and then the bra, á la Doug Funnie’s cartoon alter ego, Quailman, who wore his underpants over his shorts. A favorite of the runway looks was a supersharp black pantsuit with a mesh-lined nude bra on top of it. Very Kim Kardashian does Working Girl.
However, Lee didn’t simply throw a bra over a suit and call it a masterpiece, behaving as if Doug didn’t come up with it first. He skillfully wove the lingerie into the pieces. For the aforementioned look, the jacket had cutouts where the cups went so the brassiere could blend into the jacket, and the closure of the blazer was layered on top of the bra.
Some looks were subtler. Sure, what was once underwear was still used as overwear, but the colors matched. Other women wore their underwear normally — under the shirt. Those shirts, however, were mesh and featured cup cutouts.
So next time you put on a shirt before your bra by accident, consider layering it over your top. It’s officially acceptable, according to Dion Lee.