Paris Scene: What’s New and Hot

PARIS — Paris Fashion Week is back in full swing and with it is a plethora of new shops, eateries and exhibits to check out.

Shops That Pop

L’Ingénieur Chevallier traces its roots back to 1740, when the grandfather of Jean Gabriel Augustin Chevallier became optician to France’s King Louis XV. Chevallier went on to invent the microscope and opera glasses, with his company eventually becoming official supplier of the French army. Now owned by family-held eyewear specialist Maison Bonnet, its Rue des Pyramides store, first opened in the ’20s, has been revamped by noted designer Pierre Bonnefille. It will offer limited-edition models handmade in Burgundy by a master craftsman alongside selections from high-end niche labels.

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Long live the queen — of knits and stripes. Sonia Rykiel opened a pop-up store on Monday on tony Rue Royale, distilling the colorful and graphic universe of the late French designer in a 1,300-square-foot space, where bright hues are juxtaposed with brushed metal, mirrors and mesh decor, and there are references to Rykiel’s love for books, too. Like their New York counterparts, Parisian shoppers will be able to get their hands on the Rykiel Forever signature knitwear, glitzy Velvet Strauss styles and the “Mai ’68” fall 2022 collection.

From Thursday through Sunday, the Kitsuné flagship on the Rue de Richelieu will transform itself into “Kitsuné Market,” a retro pop-up inspired by Korean culture and ’80s convenience stores, centered around the work of artist and illustrator Tree13, who created an anime-inflected, illustrated campaign for the French label. And for anyone wanting a further taste of Kitsuné’s Korean adventures, its Louvre outpost just steps away will offer an exclusive menu with Paris-based Korean pastry chef Monsieur Caramel beginning Thursday through Oct. 31.

Arive has arrived in Paris, and is partnering with Vestiaire Collective just in time for fashion week. The Munich-based app delivers a curated collection of goods from its Marais “cloudstore” to one’s door in 60 minutes. That features authenticated pieces ranging from Celine sunglasses, Bottega Veneta’s rubber puddle boots, Gucci’s Jackie bag to Fendi baguettes. Centered on iconic accessories, new items will join the collection each week. The normal selection is still on tap on the app, meanwhile. Arive’s goods are delivered via its eco-friendly bike fleet to solve even the most pressing fashion week emergency. — Lily Templeton and Rhonda Richford

L’Ingénieur Chevallier

17 Rue des Pyramides, 75001

Sonia Rykiel

18 Rue Royale, 75001

Kitsuné Market

Pop-up: 52 Rue de Richelieu, 75001

Café: 2 Place André Malraux, 75001



In-store: 3 Rue Portefoin, 75003

Fine Food — and Drink

To kick of celebrations of his eponymous fragrance brand’s 15th anniversary, Kilian Hennessy is hosting an ephemeral bar at the Hôtel Plaza Athénée during Paris Fashion Week, through Oct. 9. There, people can discover scents from Kilian Paris’ five olfactive families, including Les Citrus Frais and Les Fleurs Narcotique. Personalized olfactive consultations are offered, too. Also on the menu are signature cocktails from the Plaza Athénée inspired by Kilian fragrances. Events are being scheduled in 15 capitals worldwide to help celebrate the brand’s birthday.

Paris is at one’s feet — and Instagram feed — from the terrace of Bonnie, the latest Paris Society restaurant and club on the 15th and 16th floors of the SO/Paris hotel, where lobster rolls, an impressive Cobb salad and a host of mouthwatering cocktails are nearly eclipsed by the jaw-dropping vista. The mirrored ceiling that extends onto the terrace and kaleidoscopic elements are part of “The Seeing City,” an immersive artwork, where light and weather conditions become part of an ever-changing display. It’s by Ólafur Eliasson and Sebastian Benham, with the participation of Studio Other Spaces.

Perched 187 feet up on the first floor of the Eiffel Tower with a sweeping view of the Trocadéro, Madame Brasserie owes her name to the Iron Lady herself and the local, seasonal and not-so-traditional French cuisine imagined by star chef Thierry Marx. His stated challenge “was to make a simple, healthy and pleasurable cuisine that is as durable as the monument itself.” On the menu are classics such as onion soup or escargots bathed in herby garlic butter, alongside quinoa from the Île-de-France region around Paris and a plant-based pavlova.

Michelin-starred chef Bruno Verjus described himself as “a being of the sea,” so for the freshly opened 65-seat restaurant Cavalieri, he wanted diners to experience “a form of magic” that will transport them “by the sea, by boat, ready to discover new horizons.” No compass needed to find one’s way to fresh vegetables with a swirl of za’atar oil, the catch of the day with a zucchini “pizza” on the side or a chocolate mousse livened up by a sprinkle of chili flakes and olive confit on the menu executed by brothers Kevin and Cristian Stradaioli. — L.T. and Jennifer Weil

Hôtel Plaza Athénée x Kilian Paris

25 Avenue Montaigne, 75008


10 Rue Aggripa d’Aubigné, 75004

Open daily.  Lunch from noon to 5 p.m., dinner from 7 p.m. to midnight

Madame Brasserie

First floor of the Eiffel Tower, 75007

Entry through the south pillar

All-day dining, with two services for lunch (noon  and 1:30 p.m.) and for dinner (6:30 p.m. and 9 p.m.). Reservations recommended.


71 Avenue Paul Doumer, 75001

Open daily for lunch and dinner.

Art Attack

The Musée d’Orsay, in collaboration with the Munich Museum in Oslo, is featuring an exhibition devoted to the Norwegian painter Edvard Munch. Sixty years of his creative work full of symbolism are on display there.

Across the Seine river, the Musée d’Art Moderne de Paris has a show on devoted to artist Oskar Kokoschka, called “Enfant Terrible in Vienna.” It marks the first retrospective of the Austrian’s work, and traces 70 years of his image-making.

Sergei Pavlov, winner of the American Vintage Photography Award at the 36th edition of the Hyères International Festival of Fashion, Photography and Fashion Accessories, is displaying a personal series, entitled “Sea Songs,” made of nine black-and-white photos in two of the fashion brand’s Paris stores.

American photographer Gray Malin headed to Paris to capture top dogs, including PR guru Lucien Pagès’ pugs, in the Hôtel Plaza Athénée and around town. The “Dogs of Paris” series will be unveiled on Tuesday, on the artist’s site

— J.W. and L.T.

Musée d’Orsay

“Edvard Munch. A Poem of Life, Love and Death,” through Jan. 22, 2023

1 Rue de la Légion d’Honneur, 75007

Musée d’Art Moderne de Paris

“Oskar Kokoschka: Enfant Terrible in Venice,” through Feb. 12, 2023

11 Avenue du Président Wilson, 75116

American Apparel

“Sea Songs,” through Saturday

62 Rue Tiquetonne, 75002

32 Rue Étienne Marcel, 75001

Launch Gallery: Paris Scene: What’s New and Hot

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