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Petticoats and gingham get the grown-up treatment at Miu Miu

Miuccia Prada's Miu Miu label put on a glamorous and individualistic show on Wednesday, ending Paris Fashion Week on a luxuriously idiosyncratic note.

The Italian designer opened the show with a series of geometric coats plastered in graphic prints in checkered lilacs and greens. The tailoring was masculine but she was soon upping the ante with nipped-in waists and seductive pencil skirts that saw hemlines fall a few centimeters above the ankle.

Ginghams were a big thing, cropping up on swingy overcoats and puffball-sleeved blouses, while next season's trend for ruffles was referenced in the panels of bunched-up sheer material running down shirts and up skirts and across anything else they could find.

Another big theme was layering, which was achieved by pairing sheer negligée-style dresses over boxy Oxford shirts in an ironic nod to the current underwear-as-outerwear trend. The dresses, which resembled girlish petticoats, were also worn under long overcoats for a more subversive look. The layering took on a more conceptual vibe when a high-collared tabard dress with voluminous sleeves was worn on top of a buttoned-up blouse more suited to a board meeting, and the whole thing was capped off with towering snakeskin heels.

When the models weren't wearing snazzy platform lace-up boots, they were in stilettos or flat pumps with strips of gingham wrapped around their ankles in a whimsical, Dorothy-like manner. There were also quirky -- if luxurious -- touches in the fur stoles and raccoon tails that dangled from waistlines. The beautiful oriental fan prints, feathers and the odd tutu ensured that a bourgeois elegance ran like a vein through the collection, which walked the line between sweet, sophisticated and seditious.