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How to recreate the beauty looks from London Fashion Week AW20

As the presentations for the autumn/winter 20 season in the British capital comes to a close, it is not just the covetable clothing and enviable street style that has caught our eye.

Heading backstage at the shows we are given a huge insight into the latest and greatest hair, makeup and nail trends that we’ll see everywhere come autumn.

While extreme lashes, floral detailing and glitter embellishments took centre stage for spring 2020, when the winter weather rears its ugly head once again, we can expect a much more pared back approach.

Natural beauty was everywhere in London for AW20, from Victoria Beckham where Pat McGrath showcased undetectable makeup, to Tommy Hilfiger where the individual hair looks were designed to enhance each of the models’ natural styles.

But this is not to say that there weren’t a whole host of statement styles. Sleek, slicked back ponytails ruled the runway, while on the makeup front, there was more than a fair share of bold eyeshadow hues.

From Erdem, to Ashish, we’ve got the lowdown on how you can recreate some of the best catwalk beauty looks.

Erdem

The makeup

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By makeup artist Lynsey Alexander using Nars

The inspiration: 1920s metropolis inspired by Cecil Beaton's work and “The Age of Silver” (Erdem's AW20 show name and the key colour in the collection)

How to create:

  1. For the face, apply a combination of the Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturizer, Radiant Creamy Concealer, Soft Velvet Loose Powder and The Multiple multi-purpose cheek, eye, lip and body creamy stick in Copacabana and Luxor to create a flawless complexion.

  2. The statement gilded eyes were created using silver foil and the Pandora Duo Eyeshadow, the Santa Monica Boulevard High-Pigment Longwear Eyeliner, the Shock ‘Em Powerchrome Loose Eye Pigment (that will be available on March 1), the Smudge Proof Eyeshadow Base and Kashmir Single Eyeshadow.

  3. On the lips, opt for the Clean Cut Afterglow Lip Balm, Triple X Lip Gloss and Sex Shuffle Lipstick.

The hair

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By Anthony Turner using L’Oréal Professionnel

The inspiration: 1920s Cecil Beaton with a play on masculine/feminine style. It had a high-shine wet-look and S-shape side parting. Some of the models fashioned platinum silver wigs

How to create:

  1. Comb hair into a low, side parting and apply about half a tub of TECNI.ART Fix Max to secure in place.

  2. Using a tail comb, shape one single finger wave into the front so it resembles a brush stroke.

  3. Add a silver bobby pin before the first loop.

  4. Gently diffuse the top of the head to set the gel and style.

  5. Secure a low pony in the nape of the neck with elastic.

  6. Apply heat to the ponytail with a precision nozzle for a super-sleek finish and smooth Mythic Oil on the ends for shine so it marries with the top of the head for a slick look from head to lengths.

Richard Quinn

The makeup

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By Isamaya French using MAC

The inspiration: Russian dolls with a graphic, tough but feminine feel

How to create:

  1. First use Prep + Prime Natural Radiance and then create a matte look with the Studio Fix Soft Matte Foundation.

  2. For the eyes, apply the Pink Swoon and Peony Petal blush over the lids, crease and then add to apple of the cheek to accentuate.

  3. Use Everyone's Darling from the Flamboyant palette along the wash line and in the crease.

  4. Press Reflects Glitter in Pearl on the lids and in the corner with a touch on the cheek for a highlight and to give a plastic finish.

  5. From the It's Designer palette, add My Kid Can Make It over the top.

  6. Apply the Fascinating white eye kohl in the waterline and the Extended Play mascara generously on the lashes. Mix up the liner colour by opting for green or yellow over the white to make the hue more vibrant.

  7. For the lips, use the Plenty of Pout lip gloss.

The hair

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By Sam McKnight using his eponymous brand

The inspiration: Couture hair in a modern way with a powdery Marie Antoinette feel

How to create:

  1. Spray lashings of Easy Up Do into the hair from roots to ends to create the powdery renaissance feel.

  2. Gently pull hair back into a ponytail at the occipital bone whilst keeping texture on the hair.

  3. Use your fingers to gently tease the texture around your head.

  4. Take the ponytail, fold it over itself and leave the ends out.

  5. Tie through the middle with elastic to hold in place.

  6. Spray Mane Thickening Spray in the same hue as natural hair colour for a matte finish.

  7. Tie a slim velvet ribbon around the middle and leave the ends long and loose.

Shrimps

The makeup

Shrimps (Shrimps)
Shrimps (Shrimps)

By Celia Burton using Glossier

The inspiration: Princess Diana inspired – demure, feminine and approachable.

How to create:

For the “Classic Queenie”:

  1. Opt for a soft matte finish to the skin using Skin Tint, Stretch Concealer and the Wonder Finishing Powder to create the powdery complexion. Add Cloud Paint in Puff, Dawn and Beam for flushed pink cheeks.

  2. Use Pro Tip for a demure flick and keep the brows fluffy with Boy Brow.

  3. Finish the look with Generation G at the lips in Zip and Vinylic in Baby and Disco to make them look full and shiny.

For the “Diana”:

  1. Use the same products above to create the same matte finish but with added contouring and tonal colours depending on colouring. Use peachy nudes low at the cheeks.

  2. Use Boy Brow to brush up the brows for a fluffy effect.

  3. Go for dark and defined lashed with Lash Slick for volume and not clumps.

  4. Apply a straight lip line using the Gen G in Cake and Leo but keep it soft.

The hair

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By Sarah Jo Palmer using Bumble and Bumble

The inspiration: Royals and in particular Princess Anne with an up do and an exaggerated lift and Princess Diana with an 80s blow dry

How to create:

For the exaggerated lift:

  1. Dampen the hair then brush back using a Mason brush and apply a large amount of Thickening Full Form Soft Mousse to create a stiff but light texture.

  2. Use hair dryer to create a front curve of the head and spray of Does It All to hold everything into place.

  3. Divide up the crown and the area at the top of the ear.

  4. Using large comb, give hair a light back comb. With tongs, start at the base line with a low elevation barrel from the ends taking thick sections - repeat this through sides.

  5. Once at the crown, backcomb the sections using the Thickening Dryspun Texture Spray.

  6. Tong root to ends over back comb and work back until you reach the recession.

  7. Ensure you maintain height at the top front of the head and texture and softness through front hairline.

  8. Takeout grips and softly brush maintaining height and texture, finishing off with Bb. Does It All.

For the 80s blow dry:

  1. Prep hair with the Bb. Thickening Full Form Soft Mousse.

  2. Blow-dry the fringe back away from face flicking slightly up and swept to the side.

  3. Blow-dry lift and texture into shape using a Mason brush.

  4. Tong in vertical sections start at the front and work back away from the face until you meet in the middle of the back of the head.

  5. The middle section should be horizontal and you can use the Bb. Does It All to shape.

  6. Lastly, softly brush out the maintaining texture, height and swept fringe. If needed use the Bb. Thickening Dryspun Texture Spray to help with dusty texture. Use the Bb. Does It All to finish.

The nails

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The inspiration: Royal family, minimal

How to create:

Apply the simple but effective colours Bloodgood and Bonjour from Peacci's range.

Rixo

The makeup

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By Vincent Ford using NARS

The inspiration: Rixo collaborated with Christian Lacroix this season, merging the worlds of ready-to-wear and Haute Couture. The look took inspiration from Lacroix’s early 2000s shows.

How to create:

  1. For a lasting glow, use a combination of the Natural Radiant Longwear Foundation and new Tinted Glow Booster.

  2. Use the new Aroused Blush and Savage Blush shades at the top of cheek

  3. The collection features yellows and turquoises that you can use to match on the eyes, creating a soft smoky eye in the bold hues of the Fatale Eyeshadow, Douro Eyeshadow, and finished with the Naked City and Riding High Powerchrome Loose Eye Pigment and an added a jewel to the inner corner for an element of glamour.

The hair

The inspiration: 60s wave

How to create:

  1. For the braided bun, slick the hair up and pin it in back with a chunky plait twisted into a bun design.

  2. The second look is a polished disco aesthetic where the hair is parted off centre and then styled into a clean kink.

The nails

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The inspiration: Polka dots found in the collection

How to create: Using Essie

  1. Prep nails with a coat of here to Here to Stay base coat.

  2. Apply two coats of the jet black Liquorice or snowy white Blanc shade.

  3. Use a dotting tool or the end of makeup brush to add the polka in the contrast colour. Alternate between size and colour on each finger.

  4. Set with top coat.

Simone Rocha

The makeup

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By Thomas de Kluyver

The inspiration: Artist Dorothy Cross who created art with things that she found, ruggedness of the Irish seaside

How to create it:

  1. To get that fresh straight out of the sea look, the skin is kept pale and pink eyeshadow is used on the eye that is the same colour of lips

  2. Freckles and any imperfections are left raw with a pinkness

  3. A tiny tea detail is created under the eye with gloss at the eye duct to look like watering

  4. Coloured abstract foil detailing in colour common to that used in Rocha’s collection that are pressed on to look organic and not symmetrical.

The hair

Simone Rocha (IMAXtree)
Simone Rocha (IMAXtree)

By Gary Gill

The inspiration: Natural fresh from the sea look

How to create it:

  1. On damp hair, apply mousse and rough dry.

  2. Section the hair into 9 even parts and tie at the root with a piece of long elastic. Take the two ends and stretch out, rick rack the hair in a figure of eight around the elastic and tie the end off. Repeat this on all sections.

  3. With straightening iron, heat up section that’s tied in a rick rack and then wait for it to cool.

  4. Cut all the elastics out apart from four on the top.

  5. Use your fingers to pull out the hair, then use a wide tooth comb to give it a curly frizz.

  6. Take the pieces still tied in elastics and arrange on the top as you want to, use grips to attach, remembering to cut the ends of the elastic off.

  7. Use hair spray to flatten and give volume in different places of the head.

The nails

By Ama Quashie

The inspiration: The show was about life, loss, creation and destruction in reference to the sea. The accessories like jewellery and bags had crystals and shells which were reflected in the nails.

How to create it:

  1. The nails were first covered in a high gloss clear top coat to give them a natural-looking shine.

  2. Swarovski crystals in clear and black were placed in a wave design.

Molly Goddard

The makeup

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By Hironi Ueda using MAC

The inspiration: The look created after playing with your mother's makeup box

How to create:

1. Generously apply Prep + Prime Radiance to skin to hydrate base with Studio Moisture Cream worked in to nourish and firm. The desired effect is minimal and fresh created with a sheer wash of Face & Body Foundation and a small touch of Studio Finish Concealer to correct.

2. For the eyes, curl lashes with Mac Curler and freely add Haute & Naughty Lash Mascara to create voluminised chunky lashes.

3. Keep brows natural and fluffy, enhanced with Brow Set gel and brushed through softly.

4. When I comes to lips, buff Powder Kiss Liquid Lip in a combination of shades Over the Taupe, Devoted to Chili and Make Love to the Camera and diffuse edges with #219 brush.

The hair

By Luke Hersheson using L’Oréal Professionnel

The inspiration: 90s girl grunge without curling irons, playing in to texture

How to create:

  1. Spritz TECNI.ART Ring Light Shine Spray onto dry hair from a distance.

  2. Run your fingers through the hair to distribute the product evenly so it feels sheeny and separated.

  3. If hair is frizzy or curly, blow-dry it first (but not too straight) and saturate it using the same produce as above with TECNI.ART Liss Control+ Serum to bring some movement back into the hair.

Charlotte Knowles

The hair

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By Shiori Takahashi using L’Oréal Professionnel

The inspiration: Beautiful but edgy, working with natural texture of the hair and adding gel

How to create:

  1. Push the hair back from the face using TECNI.ART Pli to prep the hair if required.

  2. Smooth TECNI.ART Fix Max throughout the hair so it’s slicked back and supercontrolled.

  3. Separate small pieces and twist with same product as above to create defined ‘spikes’ randomly throughout the hair for a strong feminine touch.

  4. Depending on individual hair texture, comb the ‘spikes’ straight, or create separated strong twists.

The nails

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By Lauren Michelle Pires using Peacci

The inspiration: Lean into the awkwardness of beauty

How to create:

Using the shades Chocolate, Cacao, Sandy Beach, Fall, Khaki, Pastel V110, Extreme Shine Topcoat, paint the earthy toned talons in angular shapes with a gradient effect.

Bora Aksu

The hair

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By Daniel Martin using L’Oréal Professionnel

The inspiration: Hilma af Klint, a Swedish abstract artist and mystic who used colour to convey message from unseen world was the muse for the Pre-Raphaelite mysterical, ethereal waves.

How to create:

  1. Section hair into a centre parting. For thicker hair textures, create a concealed braid or bun underneath to reduce density so the hair feels light and airy. Carefree, light waves.

  2. Prime hair with TECNI.ART Beach Waves spritzed over the top layers and diffuse the product in for a dry, textured finish.

  3. Use a triple barrel waver tool to create flat waves that are slightly irregular, not uniform.

  4. Once cooled and set, brush out and spritz the front and ends with TECNI.ART Morning After Dust to open up the waves.

  5. As a finishing touch, flick TECNI.ART Super Dust lightly onto the ends to enhance the dry texture.

Toga

The makeup

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By Sada Ito using NARS

The inspiration: Modern, fresh and sophisticated with a toughness from black eyeshadow

How to create:

  1. For the natural look, prep skin and apply the Natural Radiant Longwear Cushion Foundation, Soft Matte Complete Concealer, the new Tinted Glow Booster, Soft Velvet Pressed Powder.

  2. Over the eyes, using the Pandora Duo Eyeshadow, add an abstract wash of black eyeshadow across the crease.

The hair

By Shiori Takahashi using L’Oréal Professionnel

The inspiration: Celebrating the individual, accentuating your natural locks to appear more finished

How to create:

  1. Lean in to your natural parting and texture. Apply TECNI.ART Morning After Dust to the root.

  2. Use TECNI.ART Liss Control+ Serum lightly on frizzy hair to define.

Emilia Wickstead

The makeup

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By Jen Myles using Aurelia Skincare

The inspiration: Fresh complexion, skin focused.

How to create it:

  1. The skin was prepped and given a hydration boost with the CBD Super Serum, an anti-inflammatory with hyaluronic acid and CBD crystal isolate to cool the models’ skin.

  2. The twist came from the occasional bleached brow and a graphic gold eyeshadow.

The hair

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By Benjamin Muller using Bumble and Bumble

The inspiration: 90s inspired with a boyish look

How to create it:

  1. The hair was first draw into a deep low sided parting.

  2. Apply the Thickening Spray and the Glow Blow-Dry Accelerator at the roots and mid length of the hair.

  3. Blow dry the hair flat to the head to give a smooth and shiny texture.

  4. Comb over the hair to perfection to the right side with no volume and create a square line around the face.

  5. Follow the hairline by dropping the hair down and creating a wave by dressing the hair flat and above the ear, then secure it with a cover clip.

  6. Pull into a soft finish low ponytail.

  7. Finish with the Strong Finish Hairspray.