Here's What You Should Know If Your Skin Care Makes Your Face Tingle
Do you even tingle though? When it comes to skin care, the answer can be complicated.
Last week while brainstorming with my editor, she mentioned that she’d run out of her beloved Skinceuticals C E Ferulic serum and started using Drunk Elephant’s C-Firma day serum in its place. (The Drunk Elephant product has been cited as a dupe for the more costly Skinceuticals version, and I had recommended she give it a shot.)
One of the first things she said about the new serum was that it didn’t leave her face tingling like the Skinceuticals one did, which made her wonder if it was less potent.
That got us thinking: Does that tingling sensation mean a product is working? And should your products even tingle at all?
HuffPost spoke with dermatologists to get some answers.
Sometimes, the tingling does mean a product is working.
A lot of people ― this writer included ― like to think that if a skin care product tingles when applied, it must be working. While that’s not always true, sometimes a product’s tingly effect might very well mean it’s working, in some way.
The ingredients that often lead to a tingling sensation are typically exfoliants like vitamin C, retinol and alpha hydroxy acids (like glycolic acid), Dr. Purvisha Patel, a board-certified dermatologist and the founder of Visha Skincare, told HuffPost.
“Those products exfoliate the skin, which means they take a little bit of the top layer of the skin off. ... You [could] feel a little sting,” Patel said. “That makes you feel like the products are working because, of course, the nerves are firing on the surface of the skin because the skin is newer underneath and all the dead skin cells have been exfoliated.”
Dr. Audrey Kunin, a board-certified dermatologist and the founder of DERMADoctor, elaborated, explaining that these types of chemical exfoliators are “actively dissolving the cement between skin cells.” And while not everyone experiences that tingling, many people do. Additionally, she said, “as some of those ingredients are used on a more frequent basis, either they’ve done their work to the point where you don’t feel them, or your skin has just kind of built up a tolerance to that kind of tingling.”
Don’t always let the tingling fool you though.
As Kunin put it, there’s “definitely an innate response that you think something is working because you feel it.”
But, she said, some skin care companies simply play into that belief and add ingredients like menthol, peppermint or eucalyptus into their products solely for the cooling, tingling effect. (Some ingredients, like alcohol or propylene glycol, also tend to tingle a little more, Patel noted.)
“In a medical setting, that might be a good thing if you’ve got really itchy-prone skin ― it’s calming and soothing. But in regular daily stuff, it provides no action whatsoever,” Kunin said, noting, “it’s more of an ‘Oh, this feels good so it must be really great for my skin’ type of reaction by the consumer.”
Sometimes, Patel said, it’s all about the experience.
“There are specifically formulated ingredients that [can be added] into skin care products to give the cooling feeling, and that’s part of the experience of a skin care product,” she said. “They do that so it feels cool and fresh so it goes with the product. But it doesn’t necessarily mean it’s working, and it doesn’t have any clinical efficacy or clinical benefit, but it helps with your skin care experience.”
So how do you know when your products are working?
If some products tingle and others don’t, you might find it hard to figure out which ones are actually doing anything to your skin.
A good first step is to check the labels of your products. If you see ingredients like glycolic acid or retinol, you can expect there to be a tingling sensation as the product works to exfoliate your skin. If you see ingredients like menthol and eucalyptus, you might still feel a tingling or cooling sensation, but it’s largely experiential.
According to Patel, the only way to know if a product is actually working ― that is, providing your skin with its advertised benefits ― is to use it consistently over a period of time. She suggested testing a product for at least four weeks before deciding whether it’s working for you.
And if you’re wondering whether a product works even if it doesn’t tingle, the answer can definitely be yes.
In fact, Kunin said there’s been technology developed over the years to keep products from creating that sensation. She pointed to glycolic acid as an example.
“It used to be what we call free glycolic acid, and it was at a very low pH and it was almost like an immediate burn to the skin,” she said. “Now, there’s buffered glycolic acid, where the glycolic acid is linked to a buffering agent. So the pH is a bit higher and it causes more of a time-release activity of the glycolic acid, so it works longer, slower [and actually provides] a better benefit and result, but you don’t necessarily get stinging or burning because it’s not such a low acidic pH.”
Just an FYI: Tingling and burning are not the same thing.
If your face is burning after applying a product, you should proceed with the utmost caution.
When it comes to tingling, it should only last a few minutes, and only while the product is left on your face, Kunin said. If you’re doing an at-home chemical peel for example, she said the tingling should go away once you wash the product off. But if the tingling is paired with burning, it’s likely a sign that your skin can’t tolerate the product.
“If you put a product on your face and you feel like your face is swelling or you have redness and itching and tingling, and it persists for definitely greater than 10 or 15 minutes, I would wash it off,” Patel added, clarifying that a mild, “transient” tingling sensation that dissipates in a minute or two might just be a normal aspect of the product and your skin’s reaction to it.
Patel also noted that redness, irritation and burning could signal an allergic reaction to a product. If you wash a product off and your skin continues to be red and itchy, she said, “you should definitely go see a dermatologist.”
Generally, Patel explained, if you wash off a product quickly and experience some relief, you should be fine. But if the negative side effects persist, turn to the professionals. You can also bring your products to a dermatologist, who can help you determine which ingredients might be irritating your skin or causing an unpleasant (potentially allergic) reaction.
So there you have it: Tingling doesn’t necessarily mean your products are working. At the same time, a product can work without the tingling sensation. They key is reading the labels and knowing what to expect.
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The One Who Loves Drugstore Cleansers
Her skin issue: Dryness. "I have really sensitive skin, and I'm just getting back into using a retinoid because this is the first time in 10 years I haven't been pregnant, trying to get pregnant or nursing," says Hirsch. (Experts recommend avoiding vitamin A derivatives like retinoid and tretinoins during pregnancy and nursing.) "I'm only using it every third night right now, and I'm peeling like crazy." That means her medicine cabinet is filled with ultra-hydrating products to help counteract that dryness and irritation. "You don't need a ton of stuff, but I probably play around with different products more than other people do."
Her Routine
Morning
1. Hirsch cleanses with a basic cleanser, "usually something you can find at the drugstore" she says. The three in her rotation right now: Neutrogena Fresh Foaming Cleanser, First Aid Beauty Face Cleanser and Dove Beauty Bar Sensitive Skin.
2. She applies sunscreen, and, yes, she really does use it every day. "My skin is basically translucent," she says, so she only uses products with SPF 30 or greater. Her three favorite sunscreens: Shiseido Ultimate Protection Lotion WetForce for Sensitive Skin and Children, EltaMD UV Clear Broad-Spectrum SPF 46 (she likes to mix this untinted sunscreen into her BB cream for protection and coverage) and La Roche-Posay Anthelios 60 Ultra Light Sunscreen Fluid. She also frequently borrows Babo Botanicals Nutri-Soothe SPF 15 Lip Treatment from the diaper bag.
Night
1. She cleanses again, usually with the same cleanser she used that morning.
2. Every third night, she applies a prescription retinoid called Refissa ("the gentlest retinoid you can get," she says) to address aging-skin concerns like fine lines and pigmentation. But every night, she puts on a double dose of skin soothers: first, Skinceuticals Hydrating B5 Gel, then First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Cream. "When I finish up the Repair Cream, I'm going to swap it for Fresh Elixir Ancien," she says, a hydrating face oil that also minimizes wrinkles.
Extras
"Every now and then, if I'm feeling motivated, I'll use a moisturizing mask or an eye treatment like Shiseido Benefiance WrinkleResist24 Pure Retinol Express Smoothing Eye Mask," she says. Or she'll apply a bit of Peter Thomas Roth Oilless Oil Purified Squalene Treatment, another, you guessed it, hydrator.
The One Who Can Relate to Your Breakouts
Her skin issue: Oil, which leaves her with blemishes. "I use acne products twice a day," Lamb says. "On the upside, people with oily skin also tend to look younger." (Gotta love that positive attitude.) That being said, she's starting to notice the signs of time on her face, so anti-aging products are now a priority.
Her Routine
Morning
1. Lamb starts by cleansing with La Roche-Posay EffaClar Gel Purifying Foaming Gel Cleanser or M-61 Power Cleanse.
2. After applying a prescription acne medication, she uses either La Roche-Posay Effaclar Mat Oil-Free Mattifying Moisturizer ("when I'm feeling really oily") or Dermalogica Intensive Moisture Balance. If her skin seems dry in the a.m., she'll switch to a heavier moisturizer, like SkinCeuticals Emollience. Here's what's not in her daily morning routine: sunscreen. (Try to contain your horror). "The only time I'm outside during the day is early in the morning when I walk to work, so I get very minimal sun exposure," she says. Plus, "I'm a darker-skinned black woman, so I don't feel as wedded to the sunscreen recommendations that I make to patients who don't have my complexion."
Night
1. She washes with the same cleanser, but this time, she uses a Clarisonic Mia brush to really get the grime of the day out of her skin.
2. Lamb applies a pea-sized amount of a topical prescription retinoid to her face, which targets both wrinkles and acne. "I always follow that up with one of the thicker moisturizers from my morning routine, either the Dermalogica or the Skinceuticals," she says.
3. In the past year, Lamb has started noticing unwelcome changes around her eyes. "I've been getting Botox on my forehead and around my eyes every six months for the past 10 years, but that doesn't help with under-eye bags, which is what I'm seeing in the mirror now." Eye cream has become a part of her daily routine—her favorite is RéVive Moisturizing Renewal Eye Cream, though sometimes she'll do an eye mask like Sisley Eye Contour Mask instead. "You want something with good moisturizers, so it can plump up the area under the eye and reduce the appearance of bags."
Extras
A couple of times a week, Lamb will use the M-61 Fast Blast 2-Minute Vitamin C Facial Mask in the shower, and occasionally she'll also use her Clarisonic to exfoliate with Dermalogica Daily Microfoliant. Both help give her skin a little glow, she says.
The One With the Minimalist Routine
Her skin issue: Rosacea, which means her skin "gets red, sensitive and breaks out sometimes," she says. Gentle anti-inflammatory products help keep it under control.
Her Routine
Morning
1. Tanzi uses the same cleanser she's used for 15 years—Donell Cream Wash. "It's gentle enough for patients to use after laser procedures, so it's great for my sensitive skin."
2. "I follow up my cleanser with a little antioxidant serum, SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic," she says. "It's anti-inflammatory, and it also layers well under sunscreen."
3. Makeup with built-in sunscreen is the last thing Tanzi applies before she walks out the door. Specifically, Colorscience Sunforgettable Brush-on Sunscreen SPF 30. "It goes on like a pressed powder, has a little color to it and you can touch it up throughout the day," she says. "I put one in every bag I own."
Night
1. She washes with Donell Cream Wash again, then applies an eye cream with peptides to promote collagen production and smooth out wrinkles (her go-to is Alastin Restorative Eye Treatment).
2. Next comes the anti-aging treatment. "I'm a big proponent of layering a retinol under a glycolic acid product, or doing them on alternate nights if your skin can't handle retinol every night," says Tanzi. She chooses to layer them. Her retinol product is iS Clinical Pro-Heal Serum Advance+, "just a couple of drops for the whole face." Finally, her moisturizer, Epionce Renewal Facial Cream, has glycolic acid to lessen fine lines and wrinkles.
The One Who's All About Anti-Aging
Her skin issue: Minimizing the signs of aging. In addition to consistent sunscreen use and topical retinoids, "I've had noninvasive radiofrequency tightening treatments and dermal fillers regularly over the last few years to address concerns like eye bags and sagging skin," says Chapas. "I also really like laser resurfacing, which removes damaged skin cells and replaces them with new ones."
Her Routine
Morning
1. After she gets out of the shower, Chapas applies Neocutis Micro Firm Neck & Décolleté Rejuvenating Complex to her neck and chest to firm the area and reduce the appearance of "dreaded neck lines," she says.
2. Next, she washes her face with a mild cleanser like Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser, then uses antioxidant-rich SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic, "which not only provides some SPF," she says, "but it also helps undo sun damage like discoloration."
3. She follows up that serum with Restorsea Renormalizing Serum, which exfoliates to help even out pigmentation, and tops it all with SkinCeuticals Blemish + Age Defense on her T-zone to unclog and minimize pores.
4. At some point before she leaves the house, Chapas also puts on EltaMD UV Clear Broad-Spectrum Sunscreen SPF 46. "It can go anywhere in the routine because physically blocking sunscreens, like this one, don't have to be absorbed into the skin to be effective," she says.
Night
1. After washing her face with Cetaphil again, Chapas applies SkinMedica Retinol Complex 0.5 to reduce fine lines and even out skin tone.
2. The morning's chest-and-neck cream gets a second use, this time as Chapas's nightly moisturizer.
The One Who's Serious About Makeup Removal
![<i>Jessica Wu, MD, a clinical assistant professor of dermatology at University of Southern California Keck School of Medicine</i> <br /><br /><strong>Her skin issue:</strong> Eczema, which means she's careful about using overly drying products or cleansers that might strip the natural oils off her skin, which can lead to flare-ups. <br /><br /><strong>Her Routine</strong> <br /><br /><strong>Morning</strong> <br />1. "I don't always cleanse in the morning," says Wu. "Usually I just splash my face with lukewarm water in the shower, but if I'm feeling oily, I'll wash with <a href="http://www.bioderma.com/en/our-products/sebium/h2o" target="_blank">Bioderma Micellar Water.</a>" <br /><br />2. Next, Wu uses <a href="http://www.robinmcgrawrevelation.com/products/omg-really-me" target="_blank">Robin McGraw Revelation OMG Is This Really Me Serum</a> [disclosure: Wu recently became the chief medical advisor for Robin McGraw Revelation], which she applies anywhere she's starting to notice crepey-ness and fine lines—under the eyes, on the smile lines and the upper lip, in particular. <br /><br />3. Sunscreen isn't an everyday must for Wu, because "I leave for the office before the sun is up and I'm there until 7 p.m." But on the weekends, she uses the <a href="http://www.vichy.co.uk/sun-protection/stick-spf-50-ideal-soleil/p16837.aspx" target="_blank">Vichy Ideal Soleil Stick SPF 50+</a>. "It's waterproof and doesn't budge," she says. <br /><br /><strong>Night</strong> <br />1. Wu wears foundation and eye makeup daily, so the first thing she does at night is use the Bioderma Micellar Water to take everything off. "I get five round cotton pads, soak them with the water, then use the first two to take off my eye makeup, then the third and fourth to take off the rest of my makeup, and I use the fifth pad as a toner. It leaves my skin soft and clean but not stripped," she says. <br /><br />2. On Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, Wu applies a thin layer of a prescription tretinoin called <a href="https://www.obagi.com/patients/product-line/renova" target="_blank">Renova</a>. "It stimulates collagen production and helps control my oil and monthly hormonal breakouts," she says. <br /><br /><strong>Extras</strong> <br />Once a week, Wu does a deeper cleanse using <a href="http://www.ulta.com/hydrating-cleanser?productId=xlsImpprod4190255" target="_blank">Cerave Hydrating Cleanser</a> and a konjac sponge like the <a href="http://www.sephora.com/konjac-cleansing-sponge-P382345" target="_blank">Boscia Cleansing Sponge</a>. "You can also find them at your local Asian food store for about $2," she says. Then, every two to three weeks, if her skin is really dry or she feels an eczema flare coming on, she'll apply the hydrating <a href="http://www.sephora.com/facial-treatment-mask-P375852?skuId=1448455&icid2=lp_sk2_bestsellers_carousel:p375852" target="_blank">SK-II Facial Treatment Mask</a>.](https://s.yimg.com/ny/api/res/1.2/dLF4CN_eaBTh3DH58KRevg--/YXBwaWQ9aGlnaGxhbmRlcjt3PTk2MA--/https://img.huffingtonpost.com/asset/58503288120000dd00eef100.jpg)
Her skin issue: Eczema, which means she's careful about using overly drying products or cleansers that might strip the natural oils off her skin, which can lead to flare-ups.
Her Routine
Morning
1. "I don't always cleanse in the morning," says Wu. "Usually I just splash my face with lukewarm water in the shower, but if I'm feeling oily, I'll wash with Bioderma Micellar Water."
2. Next, Wu uses Robin McGraw Revelation OMG Is This Really Me Serum [disclosure: Wu recently became the chief medical advisor for Robin McGraw Revelation], which she applies anywhere she's starting to notice crepey-ness and fine lines—under the eyes, on the smile lines and the upper lip, in particular.
3. Sunscreen isn't an everyday must for Wu, because "I leave for the office before the sun is up and I'm there until 7 p.m." But on the weekends, she uses the Vichy Ideal Soleil Stick SPF 50+. "It's waterproof and doesn't budge," she says.
Night
1. Wu wears foundation and eye makeup daily, so the first thing she does at night is use the Bioderma Micellar Water to take everything off. "I get five round cotton pads, soak them with the water, then use the first two to take off my eye makeup, then the third and fourth to take off the rest of my makeup, and I use the fifth pad as a toner. It leaves my skin soft and clean but not stripped," she says.
2. On Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, Wu applies a thin layer of a prescription tretinoin called Renova. "It stimulates collagen production and helps control my oil and monthly hormonal breakouts," she says.
Extras
Once a week, Wu does a deeper cleanse using Cerave Hydrating Cleanser and a konjac sponge like the Boscia Cleansing Sponge. "You can also find them at your local Asian food store for about $2," she says. Then, every two to three weeks, if her skin is really dry or she feels an eczema flare coming on, she'll apply the hydrating SK-II Facial Treatment Mask.
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