The menswear season of Fall/Winter 2024 fashion week has officially been and gone, with presentations taking place at Pitti Uomo and in Milan and Paris. As always, a multitude of major moments characterized the season, from Dsquared2's makeover machine in Milan to Pharrell's Louis Vuitton show in Paris, and we're here to recap the best of the best so you don't lose track.
Kicking things off earlier this month, Florence's bi-annual menswear showcase, Pitti Uomo, saw brands like S.S. Daley and Barbour taking to the stage, followed by names like Prada, JORDANLUCA and Fendi in Milan. Finally, this season ended in Paris, featuring standout shows from brands like Hermes, Valentino and Kim Jones' Dior.
Alongside impressive showcases, this season was home to new collaborations (Junya Watanabe and New Balance, for one), new debuts and inspiring set designs, plus celebrity runway moments and plenty of emerging trends.
Read on for Hypebae's recap of men's fashion week, including Pitti, Milan and Paris.
Twins Transformed at Dsquared2
Dean and Dan Caten, aka the identical twin brothers and founders of Dsquared2, shocked and awed in Milan this season with their innovative "makeover machine," placed in the midst of their FW24 runway. Offering a transformational hub for its entire line-up of twin models, the machine saw somewhat disheveled-looking models enter into it and emerge transformed, dressed in glossy formal attire. "This season, we're inspired by ourselves," the Caten brothers said to Hypebeast backstage. "People love to depict twins as identical people, but we have very different personalities. This show was an opportunity for us to show our different sides through daywear and eveningwear, presented with a twin casting."
Harry Styles Invested in S.S. Daley
S.S. Daley's Pitti presentation merged elements of Britain's sartorial heritage with playful designs and colorways, but the most exciting part of the showcase was undoubtedly its follow-up announcement that Harry Styles would become an official investor. "Harry and I have a shared vision for the future of S.S. Daley," the designer explained, adding "we look forward to this new chapter together as we focus on brand longevity and scaling the business into a modern British heritage house."
Kinky Tights Took Over JW Anderson
JW Anderson's FW24 showcase took inspiration from Stanley Kubrick's 1999 erotic drama, Eyes Wide Shut, resulting in sensual silhouettes and vivid imagery. Underwear as outerwear appeared to dominate the showcase, to which the designer explained: "Tights offer such an amazing second skin, and they can become a kink. For me, it had to be a subversive act. It's like edging."
Pharrell Went Western at Louis Vuitton
Without a doubt, Pharell's Louis Vuitton showcases are the highlight of Paris Fashion Week, and following his stellar debut in 2023, all eyes were on the creative director to see how he could possibly top it. Drawing inspiration from cowboy dressing and the Western aesthetic, LV's FW24 fused American hip-hop staples with elevated luxury, alongside debuting footwear collaborations with Timberland and music collaborations with Mumford & Sons and Miley Cyrus.
Wales Bonner Brought Us Back to School
Off the back of a stellar selection of adidas collaborations, Wales Bonner's FW24 offered a shift towards preppy college style, seemingly fusing elements of the classic American subculture with hits of London's youthful edge. Soft tailoring, cozy knitwear and adult school uniforms dominated the collection, punctuated by signature Varsity jackets and crewnecks. Marking a departure from the cult-loved Samba, Wales Bonner debuted a new adidas collab -- this time landing in the form of a croc-embossed Superstar silhouette. Elsewhere, the collection marked another Timberland collab, the second out of three this fashion week season.
Rick Owens Welcomed Us Into His Home
Fashion's lord of darkness invited 100 guests into his Parisian home this season, seemingly reflecting on how far he's come and who has supported him. Presented as three intimate shows, Rick Owens showcased his new "PORTERVILLE" collection, paying tribute to his Californian hometown through a presentation of utopian soldiers, swollen legs and inflatable outerwear.
Marine Serre Made Its Menswear Show Debut
Earlier this month, Marine Serre announced a shift in focus towards its menswear offering, announcing its first fully-fledged mens collection would be making its show debut in Paris. Comprised of 33 looks, the new offering presented a multitude of slouchy silhouettes, monogram denim and casual layering, drawing inspiration from classic workwear and sustainable design.
Ronaldinho Walked for KidSuper
No fashion week is complete without an unlikely celebrity cameo, and this season's came in the form of Brazilian footballer Ronaldinho walking for KidSuper's "String Theory" collection showcase. Dressed in a fuzzy overcoat with light blue suit, the former player's presence cemented a longstanding relationship with football and fashion and culture and community.
LOEWE Was Loud and Proud
Every season, LOEWE looks to art and film as a source of inspiration and for FW24, it was the work of American artist Richard Hawkins who stole the show. Known for his seamless fusing of pop-culture and niche references, Hawkins' work often takes influence from celebrities, sex tourism and Greek sculpture. Staying true to LOEWE's bold and bright universe, the collection featured numerous looks adorned with vivid Hawkins designs, alongside playful silhouettes and outlandish styling.
GmbH Founders Honored Their Palestinian Roots
Closing the season was GmbH, a rising Berlin-based label founded by Palestinian designers Serhat Işık and Benjamin Huseby. Presenting a strong but solemn collection, FW24 featured nods to current political landscapes, starting with a speech from the founders themselves, which detailed their backgrounds and immigrant experience. Paired with a soundtrack of poignant Arabic music, the collection featured darkened United Nations logos and Palestinian keffiyeh scarves.