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Undercover Men’s Fall 2024

Nineties references may come and go on the runways, but for Jun Takahashi, they are ever-present. For fall, the designer indulged his obsession with “Twin Peaks,” a TV series that was an integral part of ’90s culture, with viewers around the world wondering the same thing: “Who killed Laura Palmer?”

With permission from Paramount, Takahashi took stills from the show and transformed them into elaborate embellishments on tailored clothing, outerwear and trousers with an outdoorsy feel.

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He created colorful jacquard fabric patches from pictures of the snowy roads, highways, forests — and characters — and placed them here and there on roomy dark suits, anoraks and cotton shirts.

Another more elaborate jacket featured a blown-up image of Kyle MacLachlan’s Agent Cooper, made from bits of nylon, while a denim jacket featured the ghostly image of the murdered Laura Palmer, played by Sheryl Lee, done in jacquard on the back.

Takahashi’s “wonderful and strange” mood seeped into every part of this handsome collection.

Beefy military coats with fur-trimmed hoods were edged with thick strips of colored beads — an incongruous, but lovely, detail — while cryptic cross-shaped white stitches appeared here and there on tailored black coats and suits.

According to a spokesperson, the white crosses were nothing more than Takahashi’s doodles. Or were they?

The designer tossed in a few trompe l’oeil pieces, too, printing fisherman knit sweater patterns onto sweatshirts, or corduroy ones onto trousers. It was a fun — and intriguing — collection from a designer who likes to tease.

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Launch Gallery: Undercover Men's Fall 2024

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