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Your guide to “Secret Cavite”

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The shrine of the country's first president
The shrine of the country's first president

Long before it became easy to hop onto a plane to a far-flung beach resort, there was Cavite, which was a convenient weekend destination for locals living in the capital because of its nearness to Manila. The province is far from passé though, as its three-year-old Cavitex expressway has cut the travel time by almost thirty minutes, allowing Manileños to rediscover its discreet charms. If you want to join the locals, here’s what you can do:

GET SOME HISTORY. You have to; just because Cavite is somehow the seat of Philippine history, with dozens of historical sites and national heroes to prove it.

1. Rediscover Aguinaldo Shrine and St. Mary Magdalene Church. The shrine of many school field trips of yore is definitely worth a second trip. But many visitors miss out on St. Mary Magdalene Church, just a few metres away. The church is tied in to much of Kawit’s history; the country’s first president Emilio Aguinaldo was baptised here, and there is legend of a secret tunnel that connects the church to his house. This 277-year-old church is also a fine example of colonial Baroque architecture. From Manila, take Coastal Road, then from Cavitex, exit into Kawit town at right.
 

Fort San Felipe
Fort San Felipe

2. Take a walk in Fort San Felipe. Cavite City was one of the main ports of the Galleon Trade during Spanish-colonial times, and Fort San Felipe was erected in the 1600s as a defense fortress. Today, Fort San Felipe is located within the Philippine Navy base, where you can stroll around the grounds—a beautiful, well-maintained fortress of moss-covered granite with a small park in front of it. From Cavitex exit, turn right and follow signs towards Cavite City proper, go straight until the Naval Base.

3. Check out Museo de la Salle. Located in the sprawling De la Salle University campus in Dasmariñas—which has an overall Spanish-colonial theme. It features a reproduction of a bahay na bato house filled with antique furniture, 1800s fashion, paintings, santos (images of saints), and other memorabilia. Congressional Ave., Dasmarinas, Cavite (https://www.facebook.com/dlsudasma).

TAKE A DIP. Most of Cavite province is practically surrounded by the sea. Though the beaches here aren’t posh, a daytime visit is still worth it if you’re itching for some water.

1. Discover Naic’s “white” sand beaches. Warning: they’re a far cry from Boracay, but Naic’s beaches are cleaner than those found in Noveleta and nearby Rosario, and are also less populated. The beaches here are a quiet respite from Manila, and are incredibly affordable. Try Aroma Beach Resort (aromacavite.com).

2. Go fishing. There are hundreds of private fish ponds in Cavite, but it’s illegal to fish (though prohibitions don’t deter a few people). Fulfill your fishing fantasies at the Fishing Village at Island Cove, near the exit of Cavitex expressway from Manila. It’s fun to fish for your lunch (you pay for your catch and have the restaurant cook it), and the kids can enjoy the other features like the Animal Sanctuary and Oceana Water Park. Click here (www.islandcovephil.com) for directions.

GO ON A FOOD TRIP. Hightail it straight to Cavite City for its unique dishes borne from Spanish and Chinese heritage.

1.  Visit Asiong’s. Asiong’s, which has been around since the 1950s, is no ordinary turu-turo (eatery). For starters, it looks more like a nice Pinoy restaurant with capiz panels, china cabinets, and paintings. Then, there’s the food: try the pancit choko en su tinta, which is vermicellli blackened with squid ink and topped with chicharon (pork cracklings) and sliced kamias for a crunchy-sour bite. Also order the pipiyan, a Caviteño chicken adobo with peanut-achuete sauce. Paterno St., Cavite City.

2. Try quesillo at Dizon’s Bakery. Not to be confused with the typical kesong puti (local soft, white cheese), quesillo is thicker, richer, saltier, and lovingly wrapped in wet banana leaves. And that’s why it’s sold in front of a bakery—to pair it with Dizon’s huge, hot pan de sal (local bread). P. Burgos Ave., Caridad, Cavite.

 
3. Buy seafood. Because of its proximity to the sea, Cavite City’s wet market bursts at the seams with fresh and affordable seafood. Go in the morning for newly-caught fish, fat oysters and mussels, live crabs and shrimp, seaweed, and gorgeous fruits from Indang. Then drop by in the afternoon for tinapang Salinas (dried fish from Rosario, Cavite) and galunggong (scad-type of fish). Mercado de Ciudad de Cavite, P. Burgos Ave., Caridad, Cavite.

Bibingkoy's
Bibingkoy's

4. While you’re at the market, eat bibingkoy. It’s a delicious kakanin of fried glutinous rice wrapped around sweet mongo mash and drowned in coconut cream with tapioca balls, and there’s only one place to get it: at Aling Ika’s Carinderia, a veritable institution at the public market that dates back to before World War II. But before that, ask the gracious señora Lita (Aling Ika’s daughter) for her hearty tortang alimasag, which has more crab than actual omelette!