Bach Mai's Fall 2024 Collection Is For 'the Bourgeois Woman That Becomes a Space Stripper'

Andrea Bossi

10 February 2024 at 8:22 am·4-min read

Bach Mai took on the task of hybridizing two distinct world's for Fall 2024. He traced the "descent into depravity," as he describes it, in the new collection by fusing aesthetics of bourgeois womenswear with the kinky codes of strippers.

What does his clever fusion look like? Elements of each act as starring and supporting roles, depending on the garment. For example, a typically modest cowl neck gown (in decadent brown) has an arm-hole that drops to the waist, creating a window to the bare body as it moves. On the runway, coquettish and sateen mini dresses pair with patent thigh-high boots. Sequined, onyx bodysuits sculpt the torso, whereas maxi dresses let it move with ease. Even garments like cigarette pantsuits that lean into reserved, bourgeois energy become sensual in their texture: Rich velvets evoke a tactile sense of smoothness, sheerly in their appearance.

"It's the bourgeois woman that becomes a space stripper. It's these codes of bourgeois, like scarves, mixed with elements of fetish and strippers," the former assistant to John Galliano tells Fashionista backstage. "It's the journey back and forth of the dresses that are falling apart with the bias and then more constructed things. It's the duality of her life, like the duality of women."

On Instagram and TikTok, Mai documented the days leading up to the show, including everything from finding trims in New York City's famed Garment District, to his moodboard featuring Kylie Minogue, to Natalie Portman's stripper scene with the electric-pink bob in 2004's "Closer" (the same scene were she says, "Lying is the most fun a girl can have without taking her clothes off, but it's better if you do."). It was important for him to let people in behind the scenes.

"We're not a big house. We don't have budgets for polished content, and I was like… I'm going to show you what we do have, which is real and authentic and the struggle and what it takes for a young designer. A lot of us are struggling right now," he says.

Other cool things? All the prints in Fall 2024 were developed with A.I., including the flamingo motif that reminds Mai of Palm Beach. Plum-tinted geometric prints recall the visuals that might pop up as your Windows XP screensaver. And that makes perfect sense: Mai was thinking of the early 2000s when making this collection, including Kylie Minogue's "Fever" era.

The designer fashioned nighttime allure out of couture-quality fabrics. (The brand works with French textile maison Hurel.) For example, his iridescent lurex radiates a futuristic, multi-chromatic shine. Black leather opera gloves are his go-to runway accessory.

With Fall 2024, Mai turned the tables from last season's show where he faced his own grief after the loss of his father. This season, he explores illicit nightlife in all its dark romance and naked wanting. He reveals a rave-ready collection that mixes kinky silhouettes and fine French fabrics. Sure, there are pieces for a red carpet, for a night out and for a ritzy dinner — but the collection is also for the woman who needs to dramatically escape the party and, on the way, finds some man outside who shares his coat in chivalry.

Keep scrolling to see every look from Bach Mai's Fall 2024 collection.