Christian Cowan Delivers an Ode to Icons of the Queer Community With Glitzy Hollywood Flair

The collection was full of glamour, tribute and rich storytelling.

Echoes of Judy Garland belting out her most famous ballads — "Smile," "The Man That Got Away" — traveled through a barren, concrete space Tuesday night alongside dozens of strutting models, all wearing designs by Christian Cowan that rang like an ode to some of the Queer community's most beloved female icons.

The show notes state that the collection "focuses on the heroines of the dawn of pop culture; Dietrich, Garland, Baker, Mansfield, Kitt, Crawford, Monroe. Women who became legends. Icons of talent, beauty and sorrow. Legends who became idols of allyship to marginalized queer communities across America."

This sentiment was reflected incredibly clearly in the clothes coming down the runway. The show opened with a satin suit in lavender, a color that holds plenty of historical significance for representing power and resistance within the LGBTQ+ community.

Cowan's show notes also mention the largely popular belief that the death of Garland, arguably one of the queer community's most beloved figures, was "the straw that broke the camel's back" on the evening of the 1969 Stonewall Riots, a.k.a. the beginning of the Gay Liberation Movement. (Garland's funeral took place earlier that day in the streets of New York City, where over 20,000 fans grieved — some claim that many attendees went to the Stonewall Inn afterward to mourn together.)

This is why, when a model appeared in nothing but black trousers and an oversized caped veil, the connection to Garland felt nothing short of somber. With her top completely exposed, the look seemingly acknowledged Garland's deeply vulnerable position throughout her career, constantly being taken advantage of and misunderstood — one of the many reasons the queer community felt connected to her.

The veil was accompanied by a glamorous feather trim, beautifully depicting the contrast between the reality of extreme exposure and the glittering aspects of Hollywood fame many of these women faced.

Shortly thereafter, many models wore looks encrusted with bejeweled tassels that were audible in their movements. Paying homage to the concept of the 'showgirl,' Cowan followed with out-of-this-world feather headdresses that were not just extravagant in nature and reflective of old-Hollywood theatrics, but also provided a touch of humor.

The official sponsor of the show was Doritos, which sounds like an odd pairing, but seems to have inspired some of the shapes throughout the collection. Aside from the headpieces, a few models wore sizable triangular Paco Rabanne-like paillettes that were certainly reminiscent of the heavily favored corn chip.

Stepping away from the snack theme and circling back to celebrity, much of the color story relied on a trend surrounding this season at-large: Red. In connection with the show notes, it doesn't feel too far off to connect the splashes of bright ruby hues to the iconic red lip of Marilyn Monroe and countless other female legends.

Not so long after, lavender made its way back onto the runway, this time in floor-length spandex-like fabrics evocative of Kim Kardashian's preferred Balenciaga looks. (Perhaps Cowan could become her new go-to?)

As the show neared its end, a more modernized approach to Hollywood iconography came with it. A model sporting a Mia Wallace haircut and cyan-colored midi dress evocative of the "Pulp Fiction" character began to wrap up the story.

Finally, for the closing look, a sequined halter neck jumpsuit appeared underneath a splashy feathered coat that weighed down the model who carried it on her back. Though unplanned and evidently unintentional, the model eventually dropped the coat after struggling to walk with it on, in a scene that was met with roars of applause. It was the perfect ending to the show's narrative.

The women Cowan honored carried the weight of the world on their shoulders, and whether through tragedy, growth or otherwise, they all had a chance to take a breath of air into freedom.

To see the full collection, scroll below.

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