Mouna Ayoub Sells Chanel Coat for 312,000 Euros, Phoebe Philo Restocks
STEPPING UP: Brooke Jaffe has been promoted to senior vice president of public affairs and strategy at Penske Media Corp., the parent company of WWD.
In the role, Jaffe will continue to help accelerate and grow new and existing business across PMC and its brands. Since she joined PMC in 2019, Jaffe has added responsibilities for Dick Clark Productions public relations, and served as part of the leadership team building LA3C, PMC’s Los Angeles-focused festival.
More from WWD
Blackpink Accept MBE From King Charles III in Chanel, Dior, Saint Laurent, Cartier
Phoebe Philo Announces Second Delivery of Signature Collection
Jaffe will continue to drive internal and external communication strategies for PMC, including media communication, brand amplification, corporate messaging, information dissemination and issue management. Her work will also include engaging with and influencing public policy, including fostering relationships with outside organizations that align with PMC’s business and mission to be a force for good within communities.
“Brooke is such a vital and trusted partner to me and our entire senior leadership team,” said Jay Penske, chief executive officer, chairman and founder of Penske Media Corporation and CEO of Dick Clark Productions. “She brings positivity, creativity, drive, strategic thinking and collaboration to every business at PMC. We are very thankful and proud to have Brooke on our team.”
Before Jaffe joined PMC, she spent more than a decade at Bloomingdale’s as women’s fashion director where she was responsible for determining business trends, discovering emerging talent and directing merchandise selection for the company nationwide. — WWD STAFF
SOLD: Mouna Ayoub’s auction of the crème de la crème of her vast collection of Chanel haute couture was a hit.
Maurice Auction sold all 252 lots on Monday night at the Pavillon Gabriel in Paris, netting 1.5 million euros, with one evening coat — embroidered by Lesage to resemble the ornate Coromandel screens that founder Gabrielle Chanel so treasured — fetching 312,000 euros, according to a spokeswoman for the sale.
The star lot, the coat was estimated to fetch between 150,000 and 200,000 euros.
Ayoub said she wore it only once — to attend an opera at La Scala in Milan. It was from Chanel’s fall 1996 haute couture collection.
A black sheath dress draped with gold chains went for 75,400 euros, and a leather and gilt “boxing” belt from the fall 1991 collection for 16,900 euros.
Other lots on offer included dresses, suits, shoes, jewelry, belts and even a wig with an ankle-length ponytail that Shalom Harlow rocked on the runway, dated from 1990 to 2014.
International buyers snapped up 75 percent of the lots, according to Maurice Auction.
In an interview last week, Ayoub said she was parting ways with her beloved Chanels because they don’t fit her any more.
Also, “I really want to give the young generation that didn’t know Karl and didn’t have the chance to own any haute couture pieces by Karl to own them and wear them and love them like I did,” she told WWD.
Ayoub took loving care of her exceptional Chanels, purchasing many of them for their sheer beauty and exceptional craftsmanship. All were stored in museum-caliber storage conditions.
She plans to donate part of the proceeds from the sale to Fondation des Femmes, an organization that champions women’s rights and freedom, while combating violence against them.
A well-known society figure and jet-setter originally hailing from Lebanon, Ayoub works in real estate, buying and selling properties in the U.S. — and plowing the lion’s share of her gains into her bulging, gently used couture wardrobe.
She still possesses about 2,500 haute couture pieces — and more are on the way. She has orders in progress at Chanel, Schiaparelli, Fendi and Dior. — MILES SOCHA
SECOND COMING: Philo-philes can circle Nov. 28 on their calendars — and hope it coincides with payday.
British designer Phoebe Philo, who unveiled the first designs of her new signature fashion house last month, announced Tuesday that the second delivery of her first “edit” — her term for collections — will be available for purchase beginning that day on phoebephilo.com.
Other details about this second act are under wraps. A third delivery of this edit, dubbed A1, is expected at a later date.
Philo plans to release future edits according to her own schedule, rather than the standardized fashion calendar, as she sees her new designs as seasonless and part of a continuous body of work.
The first delivery of Phoebe Philo — easily the most anticipated womenswear collection of 2023 — appears to have sold out rapidly. The label covers the gamut of categories, spanning ready-to-wear, footwear, handbags, jewelry and eyewear.
As reported, retail prices for A1 range from $1,400 to $2,400 for trousers; $2,200 to $8,500 for dresses; $3,600 to $4,800 for knits; $3,600 to $4,500 for tailored jackets; $6,900 to $12,000 for leather jackets, and $16,500 to $25,000 for shearling jackets. Shoes run from $1,100 to $1,750 and handbags from $3,500 to $8,500.
Anticipation for the collection has been building since Philo revealed in July 2021 that she would be returning to fashion with a new, independent house, and with LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton as a minority investor.
One of the most revered — and bankable — designers of her generation, she is probably best known for engineering a brand rejuvenation at LVMH-owned Celine. — M.S.
REAL SMART: For jeweler David Morris, artificial intelligence is the latest creative involved in its 2023 Christmas campaign, released Wednesday.
But don’t call this an AI-generated campaign.
Given it also called for a live model, jewelry and real props, “mixed media” is a better descriptor, said the jeweler’s brand content manager, Cecily Morris.
“AI is not quite to the point where you press a button and it spits out a campaign,” she continued, calling it no replacement for human creativity — or artistic ability, especially when it comes to details of human anatomy like hands and eyes.
Using AI slotted in with the brand’s technophile approach that saw it launch high jewelry through e-commerce pre-pandemic, thanks to a hookup with Farfetch, but also felt an apt tool to trial in a social and video-first campaign.
What it does facilitate is agility, helping the brand was “achieve more, with a better-suited timeline,” said Morris. Compared to computer-generated imagery, the process had taken around two months, rather than a year.
Each collection also received a full complement of assets thanks to AI, with videos up to a minute, rather than 30-second clips and limited still imagery, with a cost on par with a classic shoot with a model — and half of what a live production involving bold-face creatives would be.
Created in collaboration with London-based Junction 11 Creative Studios, the holiday lineup explores eight of the brand’s collections, including Miss Daisy, Fortuna and Rose Cut. Stepping into David Morris’ rose-hued box, the model is then taken into a whirlwind tour of unique sceneries inspired by the narratives behind each line.
The agency’s creative director Darren Giles said “integrating data-driven and generative AI brought new ways to channel our creative aspirations, allowing us more opportunities to craft, play and refine.”
The jeweler’s Christmas campaign will be released across its social media and digital platforms. — LILY TEMPLETON
TEACHING MOMENT: Bianca Saunders, who scored the 2021 edition of the ANDAM Fashion Prize, has been named the latest mentor at Istituto Marangoni’s London campus for the academic year beginning October 2023.
Under her new role, Saunders will lead master classes that delve deep into the creative and technical aspects of fashion design, present guest speakers to share their knowledge and insights, and provide one-on-one feedback to students directly, the school said.
Valérie Berdah-Levy, director at Istituto Marangoni London, said Saunders’ creative approach to design “aligns perfectly with our commitment to expanding the boundaries of traditional fashion.”
“Her extensive experience and fresh perspective will provide unique and unparalleled insights while inspiring and empowering our students, as they embark on their own journeys within the fashion industry,” she added.
“I am honored to be a part of the esteemed group of mentors aiding in Istituto Marangoni London’s mission to nurture and shape the future of fashion,” Saunders said. “I look forward to sharing my experiences, knowledge and passion for the industry with the students to progress forward as the next generation of designers.”
Every year, Istituto Marangoni London selects industry leaders to create a curriculum for the students expanding their knowledge while providing them with the guidance to succeed in the fashion industry. Prior to Saunders, the school hired Grace Wales Bonner and Katie Grand as mentors in London, and Olivier Rousteing, creative director at Balmain, for the Paris branch.
Founded in 1935, Istituto Marangoni now teaches around 5,000 students from its schools in Milan, Florence, Paris, London, Dubai, Mumbai, Shanghai, Shenzhen and Miami. Notable graduates include Domenico Dolce, Alessandro Sartori, Paula Cademartori and Gilda Ambrosio. — TIANWEI ZHANG
BUSINESS STRATEGY: Laurence Lapierre, a longtime Burberry executive, will join KCD as senior vice president, media relations, effective in January.
Lapierre is to oversee several of KCD’s main clients and help the European office develop new business across the media relations, digital and creative divisions. She is to work closely with Alexis Arnault, KCD Paris partner, and the senior managers of the various groups.
“Lapierre comes to KCD with extensive knowledge within the luxury sphere, an established industry network, a bold sense of leadership and a true passion for creativity and innovation,” KCD said in a statement.
A graduate of the Institut Supérieur de Communication et Publicité with a master’s degree in communications, specializing in public relations, Lapierre will join the agency from Burberry, where she worked for 15 years, most recently as director of marketing and communications for Europe.
Prior to that, she spent almost nine years at Chloé, where she handled global PR and VIP strategy.
“Her marketing and digital experience and exceptional industry insight are notable assets she will bring to our clients,” said Arnault. “Her excellent management and leadership skills will be key in developing our Paris team across the media relations, digital and creative groups and transmitting the values that are dear to us at KCD.”
Founded in 1984, KCD works with brands that span from emerging to established, providing bespoke consulting and handling everything from media relations to creative, fashion services, digital, guest experience and VIP services.
KCD Paris clients include Balmain, Brunello Cucinelli, Diesel, Gucci, Isabel Marant, Mugler, Rabanne and Rick Owens. — JOELLE DIDERICH
PRESENTING FASHION: Music, television, fashion and action!
Maya Jama, the British television presenter famed for hosting the dating game show “Love Island” will host the 2023 Fashion Awards along with musician Kojey Radical. Meanwhile, former celebrity stylist Law Roach will host the red carpet coverage.
The event will take place on Dec. 4 at Royal Albert Hall in London.
“The two [Jama and Radical] are pioneers in their respective industries and represent fashion’s position at the intersection of culture. I look forward to seeing their dynamic energy on stage as we celebrate the many achievements of the fashion industry this year,” said Caroline Rush, chief executive officer of the BFC.
Grace Wales Bonner, Martine Rose, Maximilian Davis and Kim Jones are among the nominees for the night.
Makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury will receive the Special Recognition Award and designer Valentino Garavani will receive the Outstanding Achievement prize for his “groundbreaking couture creations” and red carpet gowns.
The awards will have a definite British accent this season, with the majority of nominees born or based here, or drawn from the London Fashion Week calendar. They represent emerging and established talent, and most of them run independent labels.
In the past, many of these British-based designers had to compete with international names working for the big European luxury groups.
Categories include Model of the Year, British Menswear Designer, British Womenswear Designer, Designer of the Year, BFC Foundation Award, Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator, Outstanding Achievement Award and Leader of Change. — HIKMAT MOHAMMED
PEARL PERFUMES: Lalique Group has signed a worldwide fragrance license with Japanese jeweler Mikimoto, famed for its pearl creations.
The license, which pertains to a collection of perfumes and crystal editions, will initially run through 2035, Lalique said in a statement released Tuesday.
The first crystal edition under the license is expected in 2025. The international launch of the first luxury perfume created with Lalique Group is slated for spring 2026.
“The fragrances will be distributed and marketed through Lalique Group’s global network, leveraging Mikimoto’s renowned brand in Asia and other key markets including the Americas, Europe and the Middle East,” Lalique Group said.
Mikimoto was founded in 1893 by Kokichi Mikimoto, who developed the first cultured pearl. The brand has flagship boutiques in financial and luxury hubs around the globe, including Tokyo, New York, Paris, London, Beijing, Shanghai, Hong Kong, Taipei, Singapore and Bangkok.
“Mikimoto and Lalique Group share a sense of excellence and craftsmanship making this partnership and idea opportunity to further strengthen our perfume portfolio,” said Roger von der Weid, chief executive officer of Lalique Group.
“Both companies address a market in the high-end consumer goods sector, where perfumes are an important form of expression and also a natural fit with pearl jewelry,” said Yasuhiko Hashimoto, managing director of Mikimoto. “With Lalique Group as a premium manufacturer, we can take our perfume offering to the next level.”
Lalique Group’s fragrance portfolio also includes Lalique parfums, Brioni Fragrances, Jaguar Fragrances, Bentley Fragrances, Parfums Grès and Parfums Samouraï. The group will soon launch scents for Superdry. — JENNIFER WEIL
Best of WWD
