Mugler RTW Spring 2024
Casey Cadwallader delivered one of the most memorable displays of Paris Fashion Week with his spring collection for Mugler, and all it took was a few yards of fabric and some powerful wind machines. Well, that, and a cast that included Angela Bassett, Fan Bingbing, Paris Hilton and an all-star squad of veteran models.
Guests murmured their approval as the fans whirred into action, providing the first semblance of air conditioning in a season blighted by steamy venues. The graphic black ventilators hanging from the ceiling were the only decorations on the white box set and it quickly became apparent why.
More from WWD
With Record-breaking Temperatures During Fashion Month, Naked Dressing Is Here to Stay
Paris Hilton Sparkles in Crystallized Off-the-shoulder Dress by Self-Portrait on 'The Tonight Show'
Behind H&M Foundation, HKRITA's Latest Recycled Leather Project 'reProLeather'
The blank backdrop was the perfect foil for Cadwallader’s smashing collection, which toggled between graphic tailoring and dresses made from yards of silky fabric that coiled in the air like ink in water.
Mariacarla Boscono was first out of the gate in a transparent black 3D-molded bustier, a long black veil streaming from the back of her head.
Hilton stalked the runway in a tailored black top with power shoulders, cropped to reveal a corset and matching skirt carved away over the thighs. Cadwallader paid tribute to founder Manfred Thierry Mugler’s feathered creations with a sequence of dresses sprouting iridescent die cut plastic sequins that whipped in the wind.
The show delivered a succession of “wow” moments, from the black coat dripping with 7,000 meters of dégradé hand-dyed fringe to Bassett’s showstopper of a black gown, which unfurled like a giant jellyfish. Fan’s train morphed into an orange color gradient that flickered like a flame.
Cadwallader also showed a smattering of men’s looks as a teaser for a full collection next year, following the success of Mugler’s recent collaboration with high street retailer H&M, which garnered a strong male following.
It was the first collection since the brand revealed it was easing up on the see now, buy now strategy it adopted during the coronavirus pandemic. Cadwallader said he wanted to maintain the level of excitement of his fashion films, and having the right cast on board was key to delivering that drama.
“This season, I really wanted to find women who were established, wise, powerful, confident people that have inspired me,” he said. “The yeses come from the people who are performative and game and want to do it, and it’s really interesting because then they show up and they’re excited, and they’re ready to deliver on the runway. That energy is so critical for Mugler.”
Between the supes on the runway and a front row featuring the likes of Issa Rae, Laverne Cox, Karol G, Venus Williams, Tyga and Ashley Graham, the show conjured the brand’s heyday in the ‘80s, when its founder pioneered the modern fashion spectacle with his Broadway-like productions.
Cadwallader did it his way, and the audience was simply blown away.
Launch Gallery: Mugler RTW Spring 2024
Best of WWD
