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Professional film and television makeup artist explains how to stop makeup flaking from dry skin: ‘use a satin, skin-like finish’

A professional makeup artist for film and television is revealing how best to apply makeup to dry skin.

On Oct. 2, Saj Mack (@withsaj), speaking as someone who doesn’t have time “to wait four to six weeks for skincare results,” took to TikTok to share her step-by-step routine to ensure that dry patches of skin don’t show through makeup.

The first step, according to Mack, is to wash your face with a cleanser. To remove the cleanser, she suggests the use of a clean wash cloth or a biodegradable face towel. “The key is in cloth,” she says, as that will remove the flaky texture on the surface of your skin.

Bringing hydration back into the skin is the next step. For this, Mack recommends a hydrating toner, face masks or an essence, which is a water-based skin care product. Once the skin is hydrated, she “seals it in” with a hyaluronic acid serum. To further lock in all the hydration, Mack advocates for the use of a good moisturizer, Weleda Skin Food, Embryolisse, or any hydrating barrier that sits well on the skin.

Dr. Barbara Sturm, an aesthetics doctor in anti-inflammatory medicine and the founder of Dr. Barbara Sturm Skincare, also advocates for the use of a face mist that contains hyaluronic acid.

“My face mist contains hyaluronic acid, a potent humectant that is an essential weapon against transdermal water loss since it helps bind existing water into the skin cells so it can’t evaporate,” she told Byrdie.

“Skip the primer. You don’t need,” Mack claims. “In fact, did you know that primer is the leading cause of separation in your base makeup products?”

Now that the skin is ready for base makeup, Mack explains that the type of foundation is also crucial. Powder, matte and dewy foundations should be avoided for this skin type. Instead, she says, use a foundation with a “satin, skin-like finish.”

“This is the type of formula that sits in between the scale of being matte and dewy,” she explains. “If the formula of your foundation is too dry, it’s going to pick up on the little lines in between the texture sitting on top of your skin. If it is too dewy and reflective, it will do exactly the same thing.”

Mack does note, however, that this is a “short term fix” for your skin. Long term, she recommends using hydrating products and an exfoliating toner every day.

The American Academy of Dermatology Association has provided a series of tips to relieve dry skin, including:

Apply moisturizer immediately after washing. Ointments, creams, and lotions (moisturizers) work by trapping existing moisture in your skin. To trap this much-needed moisture, you need to apply a moisturizer within few minutes of:

  • Drying off after a shower or bath

  • Washing your face or hands

Use an ointment or cream rather than a lotion. Ointments and creams are more effective and less irritating than lotions. Look for a cream or ointment that contains one or more of the following ingredients:

  • Jojoba oil

  • Dimethicone

  • Glycerin

  • Hyaluronic acid

  • Lactic acid

  • Lanolin

  • Mineral oil

  • Petrolatum

  • Shea butter

In a follow-up video posted on Oct. 6, Mack goes into depth about the exact products she uses on set to hide dry and flaky skin on her actors and actresses.

“These foundations, I really love,” she says of a selection that includes Giorgio Armani’s Luminous Silk Foundation and Yves Saint Laurent’s All Hours Foundation. “I know that they’re pricey, I’m sorry. I feel like you should splurge on your base makeup, if any one thing in your makeup routine. These are all skin finish textures…They wear amazingly on our cameras at work and obviously in real life.”

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