Ujoh RTW Spring 2024
Best-known for his innovative pattern-cutting, Mitsuru Nishizaki incorporated organic curved shapes into his unisex layered and tailored silhouettes for spring. Despite the rounded forms, his aesthetic remained razor-sharp.
Menswear fabrics were deployed on vests crafted from patches of material in abstract shapes that buttoned together around the body like soft armor. These were worn with crisp shirts or suit jackets and wide pants, some with buttons down the front, to create volume.
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Their cropped proportions, highlighting the upper torso, were a key aspect of Nishizaki’s style exercise of the season, he explained through an interpreter backstage. This also involved bustier jumpsuits that looked to be pants pulled up above the bust and cinched with a matching fabric belt, for instance. Lapels and collars on crisp trenchcoats and petal-like shirt tails, meanwhile, were also administered in convex forms.
Tunics were cut open on the sides and gathered, their openings revealing the hip, particularly effective when done in a satin-like beige washi paper fabric developed by artisans in the designer’s home region of Fukui, Japan.
There were plays on transparency by way of lilac muslin or a structured nylon fabric with a waffle motif that shimmered under the lights in the American Cathedral. Another addition to the neutral palette came by way of a celadon green that recalled the ceramics of his homeland.
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Launch Gallery: Ujoh RTW Spring 2024
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