Five reasons to visit Kannur

It was not just Diego Maradona or jewellery stores that put Kannur on the tourist map. In a land steeped in football where Che Guevara is feted in more posters than Mohanlal or Mammooty, I discovered history, beaches and traditions that fascinated me. Temples, churches, cemeteries and forts surround this region that are still reminiscent of the colonial flavour. Together with Mahe and Thalassery and Kozhikode, Kannur is steeped in history.

Next time, on your trip to God’s Own Country, forget the backwaters and visit Kannur, the land named after Lord Krishna. The British may have changed the name of this Malabar town to Cannanore, but Kannur takes its origins from Kannan Oor, referring to a place belonging to Kannan or Krishna. Here are five reasons why you must visit the town.

1. Visit a 500-year-old fort

Overlooking the Laccadive Sea and located about 3 km from the city is the 16th century St Angelo Fort, built by the Portuguese who ruled over it for over 150 years. Built by Francisco de Almeida, the first Portuguese Viceroy of India, the original fort has almost been destroyed since the Dutch took it over and restored it. What one sees today are the three bastions built by the Dutch - Hollandia, Zeelandia and Frieslandia. The fort has changed hands; it was bought over by the Arakkal royal family and then taken over by the British. Look out for the chapel, the old staircases and the ancient lighthouse besides a stunning view of the Moppila Bay.

2. The Arakkal Museum with its 300-year-old artefacts

Just a stone’s throw from the fort is the museum of one of the royal families who had ruled over Kannur and a few Laccadive islands 300 years ago. In the 19th century, the family had briefly owned the fort as well. The Arakkals were the only Muslim rulers in Kerala and today, the museum is one of the few legacies that they have left behind. Standing in a quiet corner is what is left of their palace and the durbar hall is filled with furniture, weapons, telephones and telescopes besides paintings and other memorabilia of their regime.

3. Take your car to the largest drive-on beach in Asia

The famous Malabar coastline offers itself to you as virgin beaches. Drive a bit outside the town and you can cruise down the Muzhappilanghad driving beach, the only “drive-on” beach in India and the largest in Asia. It’s a rainy day when I visit there and cyclists are busy plying on the beach while cars are packed. In a land made famous by maritime trade, bays and beaches greet you everywhere. There is the Payyambalam Beach, Baby Beach, Thottada Beach, Ezhara Beach, and Meenkunnu Beach surrounding the towns and villages in Kannur.

4. Watch a Theyyam

A traditional ritual entrenched in trance, a rich tapestry of dance, drama and a colourful pageant, theyyam is a form of cult worship that is performed largely in the Malabar region. There are several varieties of theyyam that invokes various deities and it is believed that god speaks through the theyyam artiste on the day of the performance. Although theyyam is largely seasonal, it is performed every day in the Parassinikadavu Muthappan temple, located about 20 km from the town. And while you are there, you can pay a visit to the famous snake park. In some villages, one can see theyyams performed as well in the smaller temples. A theyyam calendar is usually published for every year and you can plan a visit round the year.

5. Drive through the Aralam Wildlife Sanctuary

When you drive into Kannur from Coorg, you cross the dense Aralam Wildlife Sanctuary that carpets the western slopes of the Western Ghats and is contiguous with the forests in Coorg, about 55 km from Kannur. The closest town is Iritty as you enter the border of Kerala from Karnataka. Look out for leopards and gaurs if you are lucky. The Malabar giant squirrel and the flying squirrel have been spotted in these areas. More than 180 species of birds flock here of which a few are endemic to the Western Ghats. Look out for Malabar Pied Hornbill, Nilgiri Wood Pigeon, Srilankan Frogmouth among others. The journey itself is rather breathtaking with the forests converging around you.