Julien David kicks off Paris menswear shows

Tokyo-based French designer Julien David made his men's catwalk debut at the Paris menswear shows with a casual but elegant streetwear-inspired collection, while Mugler reinvented uniforms in a blaze of acid colours.

Up-and-coming David, 34, who has lived in Japan since 2006 and skateboards to relax, said the collection was all about subtle combinations.

"It's about mixing streetwear and high end with the placement of pockets, of a waist, these kinds of details," he told AFP.

"I find it interesting to make a suit with only a shirt and no jacket. It is kind of a street suit," he said.

His autumn-winter 2013/14 collection, shown to barely 80 people in the rooms of a labyrinthine apartment in the chic Marais quarter, teamed cropped flannel trousers with unstructured three-quarter-length coats.

Wool jersey leggings also featured heavily with reversible bomber jackets and brightly coloured check shirts.

Underlining the wearability of the pieces, David had them modelled by "real people" who wandered into his castings.

The street vibe continued with Mugler as creative director Nicola Formichetti, best known as Lady Gaga's stylist, and designer Romain Kremer sent out a uniform-dominated collection "fusing street and ceremony".

Bathed in white light, pink-lipped, heavy-booted models with slicked-back hair marched to a pounding beat.

"The trinity of tailoring, aeronautical and military regalia forms Mugler's most diverse garderobe (wardrobe) to date," the house said.

Slim-fitting but accessible suits alternated with body armour-style tops in acid pink and dazzlingly bright militaristic ensembles that looked more suitable for the crew of a spaceship.

Valentino, meanwhile, decided to adopt a very British air next winter with plenty of check -- hound's tooth and Prince of Wales -- to warm things up.

Against a palette of mostly navy, grey and black, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli's collection featured injections of red and green as well as wide strips of leather just above waist level and touches of fur to highlight a lapel or collar.

Elsewhere, Alibellus presented an entirely black and purple collection.

Designer Tiki Kwan, who made up his models as Goths, said the collection was inspired by his impression of Parisian "creatures of the night" that took hold in his imagination as a youngster.

Raf Simons, artistic director of Dior's womenswear collections, rounded off the first day of the shows with his own label creations.

Detail was all important with oversized pointed collars, graphic printed jumpers and more check.

The designer will present his haute couture collection for Dior on Monday.

Around 80 menswear shows are scheduled in Paris over the next five days, drawing to a close on Sunday with the eagerly awaited first Saint Laurent collection by Hedi Slimane, famed for his super-tight, skinny tailoring.

Credited with revolutionising menswear during his seven years at Dior from 2000 to 2007, Slimane teamed jackets cut short with narrow trousers in an androgynous, pencil-thin look so popular even legendary designer Karl Lagerfeld shed 45 kilos (90 pounds) to squeeze into a Slimane suit.

  • Nissan tests self-cleaning paint that could make car washes obsolete 54 minutes ago
    Nissan tests self-cleaning paint that could make car washes obsolete

    During this vile, never-ending winter, motorists had three options to keep their cars clean: Shell out on regular car washes; slave away in the cold, wind and snow washing it yourself, or screw it and just drive a dirty car. I, like many, chose the last option. But if only I'd been able to test Nissan's self-cleaning car, all my troubles would have washed away.

  • Popular hot yoga myths debunked 7 hours ago
    Popular hot yoga myths debunked

    What’s the hottest new workout taking the world by storm? That would be hot yoga, also known as Bikram yoga. Conducted in a heated room with sweltering temperatures of about 40°C (or approximately 104° Fahrenheit) and 40 per cent humidity, … Continue reading →

  • Thursday #sgroundup: Body found of boy who made first call from Korea ferry: report 8 hours ago
    Thursday #sgroundup: Body found of boy who made first call from Korea ferry: report

    Here are today’s top trending stories in case you missed them.

  • Photo of a very thin Lee Kuan Yew sparks concern
    Photo of a very thin Lee Kuan Yew sparks concern

    A new picture of Singapore's first prime minister, Lee Kuan Yew, who is now 90 years old, has drawn concern from people on Singapore's internet space.

  • Waste oil collector struggles after STOMP posts, receives help from kind souls
    Waste oil collector struggles after STOMP posts, receives help from kind souls

    After being photographed at work in Jurong pooling used oil near coffee shops, 50-year-old Valerie Sim has been struggling to keep her family afloat. Web portals STOMP and The Real Singapore published pictures of her in February, triggering a witch hunt for others like her and comments from readers like “Who knows if they’ll use it as cooking oil?” Some readers also said they filed police reports against her and other people they believed were doing the same thing she was.

  • I tendered my resignation without securing the next job. Here’s why I don’t mind.
    I tendered my resignation without securing the next job. Here’s why I don’t mind.

    I have committed a taboo – I have tendered my resignation without securing the next job. The reactions to the announcement were varied but they all pretty much hint at a deep sense of disapproval. “Why did you do that?” It was as if I had renounced my faith. “What are you going to do from now on?” Almost as though a misfortune had incapacitated me. “What does your family have to say about it?” As if I had offered to cook for the next family dinner. I was, and still am, certain of my reasons and motivations for the resignation. However the response I received got me thinking about why people are so concerned about the gaps in their careers. The developed world evolved from an agricultural economy to an industrial economy to the service age, then to the knowledge economy in the late 1990s and 2000s marked by breakthroughs in technological innovations and competition for innovation with new products and processes that develop from the research community. According to The Work Foundation, the knowledge economy is driven by the demand for higher value added goods and services created by more sophisticated, more discerning, and better educated consumers and ... The post I tendered my resignation without securing the next job. Here’s why I don’t mind. appeared first on Vulcan Post.